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Slab City (Left)
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Mantlepiece S 
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Not So Clean  S 
Peter Principle S 
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Shattered Dreams S 
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Unsorted Routes:

Shattered Dreams 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Louie Anderson, 2007
Page Views: 2,106
Submitted By: C Miller on Sep 28, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Some good crack action on this climb. Working the ...
Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start the climb directly (or by coming in from the right by liebacking up a block) and then climb the vertical zig-zag crack via liebacking, face climbing and even some jamming to a tricky scrunch move (crux) at the last bolt to finish on a ledge with anchors. Note: the use of long draws on bolts 4 and 5 is advised to keep the rope away from the sharp edge of the crack.

The route features moderate, big-hold climbing for most of it's length and despite the somewhat awkward crux at the top makes an excellent warm-up for the more difficult routes nearby. Also, be aware that the "Pigeon Hotel" (located between bolts #5 and #6) is currently open for business - so plan accordingly.


Location 

This is a bolted version of the lower portion of Unexpected Difficulties, and is easily identified by the jagged crack system as well as the "cookies + milk" graffiti at the base; just left of this is Peter Principle.


Protection 

7 bolts, chain anchors



Photos of Shattered Dreams Slideshow Add Photo
Shadow dancing up Shattered Dreams (5.10c), Riverside Quarry.
Shadow dancing up Shattered Dreams (5.10c), Rivers...
Dave near the top and mid-crux on Shattered Dreams (5.10c), Riverside Quarry
Dave near the top and mid-crux on Shattered Dreams...
Getting good jams low on Shattered Dreams (5.10c), Riverside Quarry
Getting good jams low on Shattered Dreams (5.10c),...
Starting the crux moves on Shattered Dreams, 5.10c.
Starting the crux moves on Shattered Dreams, 5.10c...
Shattered Dreams (5.10c), Riverside Quarry
BETA PHOTO: Shattered Dreams (5.10c), Riverside Quarry
Midway through the crux moves on Shattered Dreams, 5.10c.
Midway through the crux moves on Shattered Dreams,...
Shattered Dreams, quite a creepy and beautiful line to look at, and fun to climb!
Shattered Dreams, quite a creepy and beautiful lin...
Comments on Shattered Dreams Add Comment
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By TheHopper
Oct 11, 2012

CONDITION REPORT 

Great route, one of my favorites at the crag. Mostly sport climbing technique but I do employ some hand jams in the middle section.

BEWARE: very loose blocks under the roof! Good rest area but DO NOT pull on anything that isn't part of the wall there.

By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Sep 29, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

A good steep climb with a distinctive crux. The lower section of the climb is pure fun on jugs. The middle section is a little awkward, but the last part is definitely tricky.