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Start the climb directly (or by coming in from the right by liebacking up a block) and then climb the vertical zig-zag crack via liebacking, face climbing and even some jamming to a tricky scrunch move (crux) at the last bolt to finish on a ledge with anchors. Note: the use of long draws on bolts 4 and 5 is advised to keep the rope away from the sharp edge of the crack.
The route features moderate, big-hold climbing for most of it's length and despite the somewhat awkward crux at the top makes an excellent warm-up for the more difficult routes nearby. Also, be aware that the "Pigeon Hotel" (located between bolts #5 and #6) is currently open for business - so plan accordingly.
This is a bolted version of the lower portion of Unexpected Difficulties, and is easily identified by the jagged crack system as well as the "cookies + milk" graffiti at the base; just left of this is Peter Principle.
7 bolts, chain anchors
Dave near the top and mid-crux on Shattered Dreams...
Starting the crux moves on Shattered Dreams, 5.10c...
Midway through the crux moves on Shattered Dreams,...
Shadow dancing up Shattered Dreams (5.10c), Rivers...
BETA PHOTO: Shattered Dreams (5.10c), Riverside Quarry
|Comments on Shattered Dreams
Oct 11, 2012
Great route, one of my favorites at the crag. Mostly sport climbing technique but I do employ some hand jams in the middle section.
BEWARE: very loose blocks under the roof! Good rest area but DO NOT pull on anything that isn't part of the wall there.
|By Euan Cameron|
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Sep 29, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
A good steep climb with a distinctive crux. The lower section of the climb is pure fun on jugs. The middle section is a little awkward, but the last part is definitely tricky.