Shattered Dreams  5.10c

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.10b/c [details] FA:  Louie Anderson, 2007 Submitted By:  C Miller on Sep 28, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Getting good jams low on Shattered Dreams (5.10c),...

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Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>> Do not drive into the Quarry. You will be ticketed $150 for trespassing. Climbing access is open, just park on the street. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Start the climb directly (or by coming in from the right by liebacking up a block) and then climb the vertical zig-zag crack via liebacking, face climbing and even some jamming to a tricky scrunch move (crux) at the last bolt to finish on a ledge with anchors. Note: the use of long draws on bolts 4 and 5 is advised to keep the rope away from the sharp edge of the crack.

The route features moderate, big-hold climbing for most of it's length and despite the somewhat awkward crux at the top makes an excellent warm-up for the more difficult routes nearby. Also, be aware that the "Pigeon Hotel" (located between bolts #5 and #6) is currently open for business - so plan accordingly.

Location 

This is a bolted version of the lower portion of Unexpected Difficulties, and is easily identified by the jagged crack system as well as the "cookies + milk" graffiti at the base; just left of this is Peter Principle.

Protection 

7 bolts, chain anchors

Photos of Shattered Dreams Slideshow

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Dave near the top and mid-crux on Shattered Dreams...	Starting the crux moves on Shattered Dreams, 5.10c...	Midway through the crux moves on Shattered Dreams,...
Shadow dancing up Shattered Dreams (5.10c), Rivers...	BETA PHOTO: Shattered Dreams (5.10c), Riverside Quarry