Sharkstooth is big tower of quality rock located near to the super-popular Petit Grepon. You can get at some routes on the south side by the same approach as the Petit, but the north side requires a somewhat hidden split in the trail a little above Loch Vale along the Andrew's Glacier trail. Then you have the boulder field from hell that goes up the Gash to the base of Sharkstooth.
The descent from the summit is not bad, but we did it with double ropes which always makes the raps quicker. If you head east from the summit you will find a little notch and some rap rings. They don't look terrific, but they were good enough for us to simurappel off of them. About 50 meters down we found some grassy ledges and a slung horn with more rap rings. Another 50 meters or so and more grassy ledges with rap rings. The third rap is short and then your at the top of the Gash. Hike down the unstable boulders, pick up the gear you left at the bottom of your route and then trek out the same nasty boulder field you came up.
All right, after all that negativity about the approach, let me just say that the rock is awesome. It was probably the best alpine route I have done in my limited career. The rock is pretty solid and there were great views. We were in the sun the whole way up. The Sharkstooth is a great day and well worth the approach.
Getting There
Start at the Glacier Gorge trail head in RMNP. To get there, enter RMNP from Estes, take your first left and it's about 10-15 minutes from there.
From the trailhead, head towards Loch Vale. You'll go about 2 miles and then split off to the right and up some switchbacks to Loch Vale (0.7 miles). Then about another half a mile past Loch Vale, you see a sign for Andrew's Glacier where you split off right. We missed this the first time because the trail split isn't obvious and it's actually about 10 meters before the sign (right after the creek crossing). Take the Andrew's Glacier trail for about half a mile and you will see the Sharkstooth on your left. You'll also see The Gash which is a big boulder field that goes up to the base of the Sharkstooth. It's about half a mile to the rock from there. Exit the same way you came.
You can get to the south side of the Sharkstooth by skipping the split onto Andrew's Glacier trail. I'm not sure what routes are over here, but this is also the way to the Petit Grepon.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sharkstooth:
From the Andrew's Glacier trail, you will see the Sharkstooth to the south. Hike up the Gash, which is the large boulderfield between you and the rock. As you get near, there will be a long fin of rock coming off the northeast ridge and heading, guess which direction...northeast. Climb to the east of that and scramble up on some large ledges for the first pitch. P1. The first pitch can start in several places that are all about 5.4-5.6. I'd say we ran about 160 feet of rope on the first pit...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
Bivy site for The Gash side, as per NOFF; "When you get to the Gash, keep going almost like you are going to continue up the valley. Stop about halfway through the entrance to the Gash, then looking up the Gash you will see a steep talus gulley to the left heading up into the Gash. On the right will be jumbles of rocks that if climbed over, also head up into the Gash. In the center of these is a small cliff band. The good bivy is above this cliff, and slightly left as you head up the Gash towards Sharkstooth. If for some reason you miss it, just keep heading up the Gash, turn around, and you will be able to see the largest boulder no problem. Great bivy spot there. Another good one up and to the right if facing the big bivy. And another good cave about another five minutes up the Gash on the right in some larger boulders. "
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