Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Sharksfin
Select Route:
Big Tears T 
Blood in the Water T,S 
Hammerhead T,S 
Loan Shark T 
North Face T 
Religious Zealot T,TR 
Sharkstone T 
Sleeping with the Fish S 
Walking with the Pope S 
Yellow Butterfly S 

Sharkstone 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 210'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 389
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jul 6, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Sharkstone P1. The "polished ramp" is just above K...

Description 

This is a decent 2-pitch line on the E face of Sharksfin past a large chockstone in a crack system. From near the NE corner of Sharksfin, find an obvious, polished, L-angling ramp.

P1. Use one of at least 2 starts to gain this ramp. Near the top of the ramp, move out right onto the face past an airy move, 5.7, to gain a cramped belay below the crack system.

P2. Jam a steep bit through the crux. Find a good stance. Decipher your next moves around a bit of suspect rock to get another stance below the large chockstone. Pick your exit (I believe I took the easiest one-under the chockstone) and gain the ridge. Cams protect this pitch.

From the top, you can peer down interesting lines up the W face.

To descend, we used a short traverse of the top ridge to the S end of Sharksfin and rapped the SW corner to a ledge which leads to downscrambling under a large boulder and walking terrain.


Protection 

Wires, single set of cams to 3 1/2".



Photos of Sharkstone Slideshow Add Photo
Not the second pitch of Sharkstone. I believe the real second pitch finishes in the corner at the right of the photo. <br />Photo by Ken Parker.
Not the second pitch of Sharkstone. I believe the ...
Comments on Sharkstone Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 13, 2008

See the North Face route for a photo of the start. You could also start below the right side of the east face. The "obvious polished ramp" wasn't so obvious to us. To me it was a low angle corner with a wide crack. I had fun doing easy hand stacks as I worked my feet up the low angle left wall of the corner.

We must have climbed the wrong second pitch. Our second pitch started from the highest point of the ledge, just right of a grassy area. A hard move to start led to an awkward stance from which getting gear was difficult. Another hard move led to easier but decent climbing. This felt about 5.9 or maybe 8+ pro diff. There was no large chockstone.

I think the real route is further right, up a crack past an overhanging to a medium left facing corner.