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To be honest, I haven't yet climbed this route, because I keep setting the anchor incorrectly. Boston Rocks guide has no description but gives it a 5.4.
Locate the bottomless chimney of Fallout. That's about 10 or 15 feet to the left of this route. To the right is Blocks, right next to The Cave.
Follow the blocky trail straight up to the finish.
Top rope. It's tricky to set an anchor for this. If you use the big staples up top, you're a bit too far left and wind up on Fallout. If you set your anchor on the trees and drape them over the corner from up top, you'll be on The Cave. Go somewhere between; you might want a redirect. It will help to have someone on the ground directing you.
|Comments on Shark's Tooth
From: Cambridge, MA
Mar 19, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
Best to use some nuts to set one arm of the TR anchor and the fixed staples for the other arm.
If you follow the line straight up the middle of this photo, I think the route is way harder than 5.4. Certainly harder than Blocks, to the right. There's one move on the finger crack, near that 45° flake that's tricky. Especially for shorties.
|By Henry Eckerson|
May 10, 2013
I have never top roped this climb before, but I have led it multiple times. The protection is pretty good. Most of the climb is 5.4 territory except for one 5.7/5.8 move after the first 15' of climbing. It's a fun lead!
|By Benjamin Mackall|
From: Hingham, MA
Aug 26, 2013
I've always looked at this as a potential trad lead, up the spiderwebbing finger cracks and then traversing the huge flake at the top to the anchors of Friction Pitch. Anyone done it?