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The crux is getting to the ledge. It has good fingers. There is sketchy rock to get to the anchor. Use a directional cam after the lower section to keep the rope out of the crack.
This is left of Frankies stuff.
Standard rack. Lower off anchor.
By Chris Plesko
From: Westminster, CO
May 26, 2010
The iffy rock above the ledge (same as Shark Jaw) is reason enough that I'd never come back after I redpoint this route. You could theoretically pull a big piece off on your belayer. Heads up and wear a helmet.
By mike c
Oct 24, 2010
I agree. Very iffy rock up there! It was fun once, but like you said no need to go back...the whole wall is a boobie trap...fun lower section, though. Maybe could use a low anchor just after the first ledge...easier warm up for the area. FA was in a snow storm at at 30 degrees or so... my fingers were sharkcicles!