Surprisingly solid despite the name, this route is actually a pleasant outing. It's really no more chossy than any other route on the main face.
From the top of one of the second pitches of Trilogy walk (gingerly) across to the base of the main wall. Find the bolt to your left (on a more-or-less east-facing aspect) and head up. There is a bolted anchor just above the chossy v-slot you can see.
From the anchor head a bit right and up through some sharp, broken, yet mostly solid terrain to the top. The broken nature of the rock provides a plethora of holds.
Just before the top things get really broken and a bit nerve-wracking, but the climbing is relatively easy.
This could probably be climbed as one pitch but the rope drag would likely be quite annoying.
The first line of bolts right of the Gollum's Column formation.
From the top of one of the the second pitches up Trilogy walk to the base of the main wall and climb the left bolts.
4 bolts for the first pitch, 9 bolts for the second pitch.
|By Tristan Mayfield|
From: Provo, UT
Jul 16, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I would highly reccomend breaking the third pitch into a third and fourth. If you don't, by the end of the pitch you feel like you're dragging up a 50 pound weight due to rope drag. Also, I'm pretty sure that the daytime grade is accurate, but I'd say that the night grade has to be at least 5.10d. At least, that's what it feels like when it's dark, windy, and you're not sure if you're going to beat the rain that's coming in or not. Overall a really fun climb though!