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Bear Island
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Shardik 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III British: VD 3a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II British: D 2c [details]
FA: Todd Swain, March 1987
Page Views: 921
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 16, 2006
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Description 

Climb the crack on the left side of the Northwest Face. This entire climb can be done on face holds, using the crack for pro.


Protection 

Pro to 3".



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"Shardik". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Shardik".
Photo by Blitzo.
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By Mary Moser
Mar 6, 2011
rating: 5.2 3 8 II D 2c

This a very good route for a beginner leader. It's fun and easy to protect. At the top we traversed right and clipped the single bolt that is located just left of a TR anchor.

By Justin D.A.
Jan 31, 2012

Very good beginner climb! Easy downclimb or rappel anchors. Downclimb the opposite side of formation.

By Dave Kos
Mar 11, 2012
rating: 5.1 2 6 II MD 2a

Very easy - barely 5th class terrain - but there are couple of spots that make it fun. Would be a good first trad lead, but make sure you have a few big cams (2-3 inches). Hexes or tricams of the same size may work also.

Requires a gear anchor or at the top if you want to setup a TR (also big cams and/or smaller stuff with the use of long slings.) Not a great TR because the rope tends to get stuck in the crack or on flakes. There some bolts to the right (above Shardikawoopoopie) that can be used to TR most of the climbs on the left side of the face.

By Ben Crowell
Feb 18, 2013
rating: 5.0 2- 4 I MM 1c

My second trad lead. Very easy, which was fine by me. Debatable whether this is even class 5. Easy, solid placements for both cams and a couple of passive pieces. Miramontes's 5.3 is wildly out of whack IMO compared to the kind of old-school JT ratings you see in Vogel. For example, Vogel gives a 5.1 to B-1 at Trashcan Rocks, which is a much, much harder trad lead than this.

By RTM
Feb 19, 2013

uhhhh, Vogel's 1992 guide and Joshua Tree West(Vogel) both rates this one 5.3

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 29, 2013
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III VD 3a

As others have noted this is a great lead for those looking to break into the grade! :) In all seriousness it has good stances, clean rock and plentiful placements. Bring plenty of large gear which is what is straightforward although smaller gear placements available. 2 1/2" cams for anchor which are almost deemed unnecessary with the lone bolt up top and two bolts to the neighboring route providing lots of clip & go options.

By TheClimbingChemist
Jan 13, 2014
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III VD 3a

Perfect beginner route. My first real trad lead, very straightforward, good line and it eats gear. As of now its THE route I will point people to for a great first lead. Although I disagree with the height in the description. Its in the range of 50-60 feet, not 30.

By mike west
Feb 6, 2014

Very very easy. Was my girl friends first lead. Big jugs, huge ledges and plenty of crack for placing gear. Perfect first climb for a nervous trad leader.

By Jeremy1701
Mar 3, 2014

Excellent beginner/first trad lead. Great holds, perfect feet/stances, great pro placements. Also a good climb for practicing passive pro placement.