This is probably the best 5.12 at Chatfield, one of the best 5.12's in CT, and maybe even in New England. The route has amazing holds that change in form as you progress up the route: small crimps, angular pinches, a pocket, huge pillow slopers, to huge roof jugs. Start on the Forearm Frenzy crack and cut immediately left to a good jug hold and then start up the crimps in the overhanging wall. Steady 5.10+ crimping leads to a technical foot intensive boulder problem with a big reach left to a angular pinch. This move is followed by another boulder problem with a big reach to a pin scar pocket and a big jug. Once you have gained the overhanging sloper pillows, and a good hold, climb out the amazing, severely overhanging roof.
By Zane Dordai Aug 22, 2013 rating: 5.12c7b+27IX-27E6 6b
Aside from a few hollow flakes in the roof (some of which are very large...be careful!!) this climb goes up a section of bullet stone on perfect holds with very interesting crux moves and a heartbreaker pump crux. Previous beta didn't use some of the intermediate crimps between the "work bench" and the large hold to the left of the last clip (the bolt in the roof). Please refrain from using these holds until they are cleaned up (The flake with a large X is moving when weighted. Careful!). A classic route, one of the best of its grade anywhere.
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Nov 11, 2011
It's great to see this finally bolted and being lead, along with the other routes. Thanks Shylo. Chatfield is a great crag.