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Soloing Shantytown Swing. Continue above the anch...
The "Swing" begins by scrambling up and on top of the perched block between Psychedelic Sluice and Out of Our Mines. From the top of the block, clip a bolt and continue up past 4 more bolts to a 2 bolt chain anchor. Fun moves up plates and friction up top.
This is the bolted face just right of Psychedelic Sluice.
5 bolts and a 2 bolt chain anchor.
Ginny making the moves on Shanty Town Swing. The c...
LR pulls up from the lead in ramp
LR approaches the anchors
Krissy on Shantytown Swing
|Comments on Shantytown Swing
|By Bill Olszewski|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 28, 2007
If I understand the description properly, I'd have to say it's much more fun to start this route direct, up the crack on the left side of the block. Fun climb, great lead for the beginners.
|By C Miller|
Jul 2, 2007
The route can be started either way (from the block or the ground), but the direct is better imo. Perhaps a little tougher (?), and a little more strenuous, but gear (2-2.5") could be placed if desired/needed on the direct start.
Orignally done with three bolts (the 2nd, 4th and 5th) and no anchor; the route was later retro-bolted to make it a fun lead for 5.6 climbers.
|By Jon Leicht|
Jun 14, 2008
The direct layback start was much more fun, and not more than a half grade harder.
Oct 2, 2011
I agree that the direct start is very fun. I plugged a #3 C4 in for fun but you really don't need it and I doubt that it would stop you from decking. The moves to gain the ledge are not more than 5.6+ maybe 5.7 but I doubt it. Good fun though and a good route for people getting used to outside lead. Though the 5.3 around the corner next to wildrose is probably a better intro if it's a first lead.