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Secluded. Shaded bottom half for most routes until early afternoon. Don't be surprised to see other climbers and hikers on the weekends. Overall it's a quiet place to climb. Very 'back-to-nature'.
Park at the Cod Pond trailhead parking area along Route 8 (8.3 miles north of the Route 30 intersection, or 14.7 miles south of the Route 28 intersection in Wevertown). Head north 150 yards along Route 8 (over a small bridge). Where the guard rail ends there's a dirt road heading left and down towards the river with a camp site at the end. Cross the river (1-2 feet high during summer) and follow the obvious herd path, which meanders left, then right again, in order to get around a wet area.
Past this last wall the trail continues up and then right. You can walk off nearly all the climbs here. Which exit/ramp you choose will depend on where you are on the cliff. At the top of the dike walkoff climber's left. Middle and lower sections use the third class ramp right of Little Gem Diner area. Can also rappel most routes.
Shanty offers top roping, trad, and sport climbing from easy 5.2 up to 5.11 . Rock is good quality and routes are generally easy to follow. Routes are mostly trad, a few mixed (trad and bolts), and some sport. Bolting is done only where no protection is available in tradiitonal Adirondack ethic.
19 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Shanty Cliff
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Shanty Cliff:
Little Gem Diner 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 110'
Flying Friends 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 110'
Soweto 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Swampoodle 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Gunky Route 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Corktown 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Shantytown 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Soup Kitchen 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Rocinha 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Breadline 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Featured Route For Shanty Cliff
Shantytown 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a NY : Adirondacks : Shanty Cliff
Climb up the face and outside corner to the large overhang. Climb up the left edge of this a few feet and make long reaches up and right to get past the obstacle and onto the face above the OH.Climb up the face to a left-leaning, left-facing corner, follow this to a notch meeting a right-rising crack system and take that crack up to a final short traverse to the anchors. The final moves are spicy....[more] Browse More Classics in NY
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