Shanty Cliff  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Page Views:  1,766. Good page? (1 like)    Administrators:  Jim Lawyer, Chris Duca, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  Kevin Heckeler on Aug 30, 2010 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event  Thu Fri Sat Sun Mon 75° | 46° 50° | 39° 52° | 36° 55° | 32° 61° | 36°

Jamie McNeill on Rocinha (5.10c). Photo by Jay Ha...

Description 

Secluded. Shaded bottom half for most routes until early afternoon. Don't be surprised to see other climbers and hikers on the weekends. Overall it's a quiet place to climb. Very 'back-to-nature'.

Getting There 

Park at the Cod Pond trailhead parking area along Route 8 (8.3 miles north of the Route 30 intersection, or 14.7 miles south of the Route 28 intersection in Wevertown). Head north 150 yards along Route 8 (over a small bridge). Where the guard rail ends there's a dirt road heading left and down towards the river with a camp site at the end. Cross the river (1-2 feet high during summer) and follow the obvious herd path, which meanders left, then right again, in order to get around a wet area.

Path reaches the slabs in 10 minutes (on left). Continuing right another 5 minutes to reach the Sports Arena (on right, some bolted routes). Continuing up the dike along the cliff's base to the remainder of the wall:

• Shanty Girl chimney with 3 moderate routes

• Shantytown and Gunky Route area with many roofs and orange colored rock

• Third class ramp

• Two 100 foot walls nearly facing each other (on right is Little Gem Diner, left is Hard Times)

• Main Face (Left End) low roofs (also called The Raven's Nest)

• Long, low roof 6 feet high with a short slab section just above

Quality Climbing! 

Shanty offers top roping, trad, and sport climbing from easy 5.2 up to 5.11 . Rock is good quality and routes are generally easy to follow. Routes are mostly trad, a few mixed (trad and bolts), and some sport. Bolting is done only where no protection is available in tradiitonal Adirondack ethic.

Although most of the routes are cleaned, spring runoff can bring dirt down into the climb, so it's wise to bring a small brush and maybe carry it with you (especially if leading). This is probably a good idea for any backcountry crag.

The Classics

Featured Route For Shanty Cliff

Shantytown 5.9+  NY : Adirondacks : Shanty Cliff

Climb up the face and outside corner to the large overhang. Climb up the left edge of this a few feet and make long reaches up and right to get past the obstacle and onto the face above the OH.Climb up the face to a left-leaning, left-facing corner, follow this to a notch meeting a right-rising crack system and take that crack up to a final short traverse to the anchors. The final moves are spicy....[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Photos of Shanty Cliff Slideshow

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climbing Hooverville	Spring river crossing.	5.8 hand crack
Bolted 5.10a	BETA PHOTO: Fording the E. Branch of the Sacandaga on the way ...