Shannon Falls Provincial Park is reported to be the most often visited Provincial Park in BC. The climbing here is very good and the approaches are not long. Despite those advantages it doesn't seem to see that much climbing traffic. Perhaps the tourist popularity of the area is seen as a detraction. Rest assured that once you cross the creek and start climbing, you won't see them, except from way above, and you won't hear them thanks to the falls. This area is well worth a visit.
The left side of this area is home to some low-angle single and multipitch climbs of high quality. The most well-known of which are Klahanie Crack (5.7, 1 pitch), Local Boys Do Good (5.11a, 3 pitches) and Magic Carpet Ride (5.11+, 3 pitches). Further right from the falls, it is also home to some outstanding vertical climbs such as Man of Leisure (5.10b) and two testpiece cracks: Hungry Wolf (5.11b) and Hunter Moon (5.11d). Note that Hungry Wolf and Hunter Moon are reversed in Kevin McLane's 2005 edition of his guidebook (on the topo the 321 and 322 are reversed).
Park at the Shannon Falls Provincial Park lot which is just south of the Chief and about 3 miles north of Murrin Park.
Longer but better approach:
Walk along the driveway between the traffic lights and the parking lot. A trail heads east and in about 10 minutes takes you to the Local Boys area from which you can head right for all the other climbs.
Shorter, bushwack approach:
The a wide tourist trail takes you to the falls viewpoint. Before reaching the bridge, cross the creek on a large long and some rocks in the creek. You might get your feet wet in the spring.
Once on the other side a steep trail takes you straight up to base of Local Boys.
From the Local Boys Area:
A trail heads right and takes you to the right side ("The Gobsmacking Wall"). From the Local Boys area it's five or ten minutes to the far right side. To get to base of Hunter Moon and its companions you have to double back along a high ledge, whereas following the trail along the base will take you to the base of Man of Leisure.
18 Total Routes
['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Shannon Falls
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Shannon Falls:
Skywalker 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 5 pitches, 300'
Chewbacca 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Hungry Wolf 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Featured Route For Shannon Falls
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|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Aug 13, 2011
The trail up to Local Boys and then to Gobsmacking Wall is now extremely well traveled due to Skywalker (which descends the climber's right side). We got on the trail by backtracking on the Shannon Falls road until past the creek, and then a well marked trail takes off to the left.