|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 140'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Lance Bischoff on Oct 3, 2003|
|Comments on Shangrila||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Betty Barnett
Dec 17, 2003
|This is an absolutely awesome climb!!! There is lots of handholds and foot placements. The exposed ridge is very vertical and the rock is right in your face. You can just feel the exposure and the exhileration while climbing. The views are breathtaking and there is plenty of opportunity along the climb to stop and take a moment to just soak in the views. Note: this climb is not for those who are pretty squirmish about heights, due to the air exposure in many places of the climb. This is a very fun climb and highly recommended.|
By John Doryk
Apr 16, 2006
|I concur with Betty! We often climb this route at dawn, before we go to work. Has almost a backcountry, alpine feel to it. Often we'll start at the bottom of south end slabs, trad climb the far left crack and work our way to the base of Shangrila. Fun climb!|
By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 28, 2009
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
|Great views on easy rock. On the first pitch I climbed the ridge immediately right of the watergroove. Never found a place for good protection, but it was easy climbing (maybe 5.4?) so I just ran it out to the belay. Second pitch had better exposure and was protectable with a few cams and some slings over horns. Again, easy climbing (5.5?) but the views were magnificent. In accordance with the route description above, I continued up the same ridge, right of the decent trough and immediately left of the "dark chimney." But, for the last half of the 2nd pitch, I was envious of the ridge to the right of the "dark chimney" -- in places it looked like a sharp, narrow, vertical arete with nothing on the other side but air. Has anyone ever climbed that right ridge? I'm not sure if it can be protected, but it looks climbable. My only caution on both pitches of Shangri La is to watch your rope -- the rock is sharp and looked like it could easily cut a rope on a fall. Overall, the climbing was fun and easy, and my wife loved the views.|
From: Colorado Springs
Jun 14, 2010
I went to this route with a rope and a full rack, but ended up soloing it. Like others have mentioned, although the rock is fantastic for holds, it is not so great for setting protection, and really is (I doubted this when I read the other posts) sharp enough to cut the rope. It was so easy to climb that I figured it was safer just to know failure was not an option than to waste time setting up questionable protection.
That arete on the right really does look amazing. We spent some time scoping it out, and although it could be bolted, the same sharp rock issues exist. I'd say that's a better line for a more confident soloist than I am.
If you're looking for an easier, straightforward trad lead on Kindergarten Rocks, I'd stick with New Era.