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Shangri-La 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a A0 PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 400', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a A0 [details]
FA: Kor, Carter, John Auld
Season: limited
Page Views: 1,289
Submitted By: Orphaned on May 21, 2007

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Shangri-la is on the far left of this photo. Phot...

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Description 

pitch 1, starting in saddle between Rabbit/Bear climb 110' pitch of 5.10a with a move of A.0, or a couple moves of aid to make the climbing about 5.8 C.1. pitch 2, 100', 5.7+ climbing ends at good ledge with two bolts
pitch 3, 5.9+ LB, 70' ends at ledge just left of the 3rd pitch.
pitch 4, The hardest climbing I've ever done, it felt like 5.12+X- but essentially is a scree slope in a chimney with stacked rocks that only connect to one side of wall! (Bjornstad said of this pitch, "a long gully/chimney (very rotten) was climbed")- I think the correct term was swam. Watch for rope drag.
pitch 5 40', is gravy and leads to middle of summit.

Location 

near the outer boundary of the Tribal Park. Rock Climbing is illegal here. Shangri-La looks like a rectangular block stood on its end.

Protection 

standard desert rack, hammer + hexes helpful on pitch 3.


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By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
May 21, 2007

I climbed this route with Dave Evans in the Early 80's.....We had a blast. On pitches one and two, I pulled out about 6 or more pitons which someone left behind;....with my fingers. The last pitch , we found, to be very loose and dangerous, and about 5.6. We found No anchors on the summit, so I rapped off of Daves body weight, placed a few pieces on the way down, and Dave down-climbed the whole pitch;....knocking hundreds of pounds of rock flying down the chimney;...I was huddled behind some rocks, trying not to get hit by any missles. We knocked so much rock off while we climbed and descended, that at times , the formation looked like a factory with a smokestack going strong....(Here's how WE broke down the pitches and found the climbing...Just another reporter's opinion;...probably ball-park for us, anyways....On these sort of climbs...we free, French-free, and hop in our aiders , and then change back again;....and that's all in a few feet!)Pitch one we found as A2 and 5.9.Pitch 2 we went around the left side of a roof (5.10a), then cut left (FP) to a bolted belay. Pitch 3; up a 5.9 squeeze. Pitch 4 ; 5.6 chimney loose/dangerous. There; two different descriptions;....all to confuse you more! Guess there's only ONE way to figure out what the pitches REALLY are...... that's right;...go do the climb!...(Oh wait;...too bad it's presently illegal....)...Maybe someday.....It's a great adventure;...legal or not. When we climbed the route, we had no information about the climb;...didn't even know it's name or if it had been climbed before;.....We went over wondering if the thing had ever been climbed;....on pitch one, when we saw all the pitons;...we know someone had been up the thing....later , I heard it was called Castle Butte...and when I talked later to Eric, he said it was called Shangri-la.
By Stu Ritchie
From: Denver
Apr 23, 2009

On the summit of this formation I encountered a translucent scorpion. The only time I have ever seen such a critter in the desert!
By D. Evans
Dec 20, 2011

I still have a prized Layton Kor piton from this climb.
By azclimbingrocks
Dec 20, 2011

SCORE!

(The piton that is.
The route sounds like it's for a certain type of twisted climber.)
By D. Evans
Feb 6, 2014

Calling anything "A0", even a bolt ladder, on the res. is a joke/sham.