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The Dark Side
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Shanghai 
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Unsorted Routes:

Shanghai 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

   
Type: Sport, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Chris martin, 2000
Page Views: 551
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 19, 2008
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Shanghai is the second route from the left, beginn...

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Description 

One of the classic routes of the grade, Shanghai ascends an intimidating wave of bullet sandstone. The route begins with an awkward scramble up the unfortunate ramp. Begin a bit left of the bolt line with a long reach (and a long draw) to clip the second bolt. Match the big hold & cut your feet to get established on the wall. Enduro jugs lead to a cool undercling move to a horn, then more jugs to an obvious blank section visible from the ground. A series of big crux moves, with a bigger pump leads to a strenuous clip at the anchor.


Location 

On the left end of the Dark Side cave, this route is the second route from the left, beginning from the big ramp. Next route right of Mama Benson.


Protection 

6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Clip another 2-3 bolts on the ramp traverse.



Comments on Shanghai Add Comment
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By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Nov 7, 2009

I found that when you first arrive at the anchors it is strenuous to clip but if you move a bit further you wil be rewarded.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Nov 12, 2009

Dude, you just blew everyone's onsight with that key piece of beta! Shh!

By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
Mar 3, 2011
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

This is not an indictment on the venerable user that entered this route, but the current consensus is 12c for Shanghai.

By Eric Carlos
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 18, 2012
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b

It is 12d in all three guidebooks. It is probably low in the grade, but much harder than most 12c's at the red.