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Neptune
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Shanashee 
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Where Eaglets Dare 

Shanashee 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a R

   
Type: Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Rich Thompson, Tim Kelly 1977
Page Views: 1,140
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jul 1, 2008
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Clay on his onsight of this fine climb.

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Description 

The route boasts an inspirational runout after the second bolt (solid 5.9) atypical for the first ascentionist who normally had more conservative protection ideas. The leader died while climbing out an easier route that same day. p1 is 140' to the "toilet bowl" anchor (clean gear), p 2 about 50'


Location 

On the large lower Neptune slab this is the rightmost line of bolts. A different line branches off at the start to the left, but Shanashee heads right up to a good stance and bolt then to a short right facing flake for a fixed wire and other gear. Approach is best via the Neptune/Aegir gully off the midway ledge system.


Protection 

3 bolts, brass nuts and stoppers to 2 1/2" piece



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By John Peterson
Jul 2, 2008

Without opening a debate on PG-13 vs R, I'd definitely go into the R catagory here. You're looking at falls of 40' or more in spots. I remember that a lot of the hard moves were just before the clips. And it's not nice smooth friction like on Rap Rock where you just slide if you blow it.

By jbak
Jul 2, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b R

Definitely an "R" back when I did it. I guess the bolts have been upgraded from rusty 1/4 spinners but still....

When Paul "no fear" Cornia says "nice lead", I figure the route must be at least an R.

Bob Kerry told me the 1/4 inch buttonheads broke under nearly static body weight when they replaced them.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 2, 2008

Still gets an R in my book.