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Shamoo is one of the top ten boulder problems of Mt Gretna. It embodies all of what diabase climbing is about: small holds, balance and most importantly technique. Shamoo climbs the striking seam and left arete on the most prominent boulder in the area.
Begin easily enough by laybacking up the left arete whilst smearing. Work your way into a position where you will be spanning between the arete and crack with your hands and no feet.
Hike the left foot up to nearly nothing, perch for all you are worth and reach up high left to a tiny, nearly unusable sidepull. Stomp the right smear up, no up further. Then fire out right for the opening in the crack. Hug the features for another move, then topout easily.
Large boulder with the striking seam Heaven (V8) and a blunt left arete. Cant miss it.
Two pads and a spotter
beginning Shamu's tricky crux
Steve laybacking the ultra-classic Shamoo (v5). Mo...
|By skinny legs and all|
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jan 23, 2011
The grade on this problem is subjective. I have heard many V6's and even V7. But as the fa'ist told me if you know how to do it its V4. One can even release both hands in unison and stand in the crux position. This would be V4 in Little Cottonwood Canyon.