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Shamoo Area
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Shamoo 
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Talking to Myself 

Shamoo 

Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
FA: Joel Torretti
Page Views: 1,101
Submitted By: skinny legs and all on Jan 23, 2011

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Steve laybacking the ultra-classic Shamoo (v5). Mo...

Description 

Shamoo is one of the top ten boulder problems of Mt Gretna. It embodies all of what diabase climbing is about: small holds, balance and most importantly technique. Shamoo climbs the striking seam and left arete on the most prominent boulder in the area.

Begin easily enough by laybacking up the left arete whilst smearing. Work your way into a position where you will be spanning between the arete and crack with your hands and no feet.

Hike the left foot up to nearly nothing, perch for all you are worth and reach up high left to a tiny, nearly unusable sidepull. Stomp the right smear up, no up further. Then fire out right for the opening in the crack. Hug the features for another move, then topout easily.

Location 

Large boulder with the striking seam Heaven (V8) and a blunt left arete. Cant miss it.

Protection 

Two pads and a spotter


Photos of Shamoo Slideshow Add Photo
The start of Shamu
The start of Shamu
beginning Shamu's tricky crux
beginning Shamu's tricky crux
Sam Chey working Shamoo. November 2013.
Sam Chey working Shamoo. November 2013.

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By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Jan 23, 2011

The grade on this problem is subjective. I have heard many V6's and even V7. But as the fa'ist told me if you know how to do it its V4. One can even release both hands in unison and stand in the crux position. This would be V4 in Little Cottonwood Canyon.