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Venus Wall
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Shame on a Chippa 
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Wimpy -Gilman Ridge, The 

Shame on a Chippa 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Justin Hayes/Tim Kemple
Page Views: 922
Submitted By: Jeremiah Johnson on Mar 5, 2008
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Description 

A harder version of Venus. Getting established over the small roof at the beginning of the route is probably the crux, but it continues in a very sustained manner, with another crux in the middle and a redpoint crux at the top. The holds are exceedingly sharp, particularly at the first crux, and the clips are strenuous the whole way, though also particularly at the beginning - a much harder route to lead than to toprope.


Location 

The route to the right of Venus.


Protection 

Bolts (7?)



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By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jul 25, 2009

This is too hard for me but I have always wondered, does the name mean this route was chipped at some point?

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 25, 2009

I think Tim thought it was, but I am not sure it really was. Sometimes people think things are chipped when they are not and visa versa. When cleaning for a new route it is also sometimes a grey area with chossy rock. I have only been on the route one time, so I'm not sure what specific hold/s he found questionable. It is kind of a sharp tweakfest if I remember right

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jul 26, 2009

Thanks Mark it was just something I have always wondered about

By stow
Jun 17, 2012

FYI - The crimp some people match above the 3rd (i think) draw exploded yesterday mid-match by strong Quebecois Alex. He said it is still doable but harder and more body tension-y as you can use it but can't really match anymore. I've got the pieces if anyone wants them for the Rumney hold museum or forensic reconstruction or a terrible paperweight or anything. Repair might be possible but would be very hard I would think b/c of the many pieces.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 17, 2012

another hold bites the dust... dang... seems like rumney is falling apart...