Shalohsh (means the number 3 in Hebrew) is the next route left of Family Man.
Climb a slab, 5.9, past 2 bolts to an overhang. A few fun 5.11 moves past 3 bolts lead to a small ledge. Step right to a one inch crack, place a piece or two before the next bolt, 5.7.
The upper section is the crux and the hardest moves are at the very top. Jug up right on the flake to its top. The climbing kicks in for the last 3 bolts. The holds are mostly big slopers, which makes the climb nicely not crimpy…for The Slab.
This route isn’t sustained, but it’s got a variety of fun moves on good rock. The crux of this climb might be harder for me than the cruxes of the other 12a/b routes on this wall. But it’s short…I’ll call it 12a until a consensus grade settles out. The business requires a lot of body tension with bad feet…while matching hands on, clipping from, and then moving off, a big, slopey sidepull.
9 bolts plus a piece of 1 inch gear or two for the middle. 2 bolt anchor.
BETA PHOTO: Shalohsh 12a, the crux is at the top.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the route.
John about to punch it to the chains.
|By Chris Beh|
Jun 1, 2009
Kristin Bjornsen, thanks for all the belaying on my project. This route wouldn't be ready, yet, for other climbers, without your help. Erik Fedor got it first when we had a top rope on it last year. Pat Adams climbed it on tr to vet my bolt locations. He called it 12a (sandbag alert!) Thanks for the feedback, Pat.
I put the bolts in 5/30/09 and redpointed it, too.
|By Brett Merlin|
Jul 25, 2010
Bring a #0.4 Camalot, also pulled off some blocks down low. Be careful as this route is still "breaking in".