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Red Springs Rock Lower Tier
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Aliens Have Landed T,TR 
Carrie Fissure T 
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Shallow Fried Cracken T 

Shallow Fried Cracken 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Larry Ferber and Lesley Tarleton
Page Views: 388
Submitted By: 46and2 on Apr 15, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Brian leading Shallow Fried Cracken at the start o...

Description 

This is the very obvious thin crack going up through the dead center of this section of the crag. The crux is half way up the route on some thin finger jams and face holds. Good route but somewhat serious lead as gear can get thin and its sometimes hard to see your placements and some of the rock might be suspect. Climb with soft sandstone technique and get extra placements in wherever possible. Fun!


Location 

Climb the obvious thin crack up the center of this face; the route has a basketball sized hueco just barely to the right of the crack about 10 feet off the ground.


Protection 

Trad lead with an emphasis on small pieces (ballnuts, thin cams, brass wires, etc). There are no bolts but sometimes there are slings on the tree at cliff top for rappeling. Walk off is a pretty easy option too; just walk off as "Aliens Have Landed".



Photos of Shallow Fried Cracken Slideshow Add Photo
You can get a couple good stances down low and work in some thin gear before the crux coming up in the white section of rock above
You can get a couple good stances down low and wor...
Route photo of Shallow Fried Cracken!
Route photo of Shallow Fried Cracken!
Moving into the thin crux section; fun!!
Moving into the thin crux section; fun!!
Jason cleaning Shallow Fried Cracken just past the first moves off the ground!
Jason cleaning Shallow Fried Cracken just past the...
Just past the crux section and to the top; fun route!
Just past the crux section and to the top@SEMICOLO...
Jared working the Crux
Jared working the Crux
Comments on Shallow Fried Cracken Add Comment
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By cassondra
From: las vegas, NV
Jan 21, 2009

Good as TR solo. Easy to reach top by walking down from base of Classic Corner. Top of route is to the left of rappel bush as you look out East.

By Andrew Carson
From: Wilson, WY
Apr 8, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

The pro is very acceptable on this excellent pitch, but you can't expect to just plug and go. Stopper placements are plentiful, small cams also, but it's thoughtful climbing. When the black rails run out, in the middle, there's some fragile rock to deal with as well. Still, a very enjoyable climb. It would be simple to toprope.