Shaky Flakes  5.11a R

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Type:  Trad, 8 pitches, 800 feet Consensus:  5.11a [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Rusty Reno on Mar 31, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This 1970s classic is a devious line that exploits as many weaknesses as possible on the left side of the large apron that forms the Terrace Area. The first pitch is typical of the entire route. Bolts are minimal, and the leader must puzzle out the zigs and zags of the route.

I did the route with Bruce Dicks more than ten years ago on a brilliant Thanksgiving weekend visit to the Valley, and I cannot provide a pitch-by-pitch description. Consult a topo, and follow the natural weaknesses of the rock. But I do remember that Shaky Flakes is a mental challenge. The second pitch is very committing, and the upper pitiches, while not as difficult, involve long runouts. But be confident. If you can lead the first pitch, then you are good to go. The first bolt is VERY high; nothing you face above is more dangerous.

In my opinion, along with Greasy but Groovy, Shaky Flakes should be on the tick list of any serious Yosemite Climber. It pushed the limits in its day.

Location 

Shaky Flakes begins twenty feet to the right of the far west end of the low angle rock apron below the Royal Arches Terraces.

Protection 

Be sure to take a light rack of small stoppers and cams.