Shakin' Like a Leaf
||Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA: ||G. Gibson, M. Ward, G. Jenkin, M. Crocker, J. Shaw, N. Coe, 1986|
|Page Views: ||29|
|Submitted By: ||Nick Russell on Jun 27, 2013|
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BETA PHOTO: High Rock. Photo is very foreshortened at the top,...
One of the classics of its grade in Cheddar, on a par with Get That Man. On the right wing of High Rock is a smooth grey sheet of solid rock with a couple of small overlaps at 1/2 and 3/4 height: Shakin' Like a Leaf follows the left-most line of bolts on this wall. Steady climbing to just below the first overlap is followed by a technical sequence to bypass it, then a rest. Another tricky sequence past the second overlap gains easier ground to the anchors.
The route has a conflicted history, being first climbed fully bolted then promptly chopped by locals and climbed bolt-free in 2000. It is now back to its original, bolted state. (And looks set to stay that way!)
Park in High Rock car park, practically at the bottom of the route. Shakin' Like a Leaf is the first bolted line to the right of Coronation Street.
9 bolts on the route, two-bolts anchor with rings.