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 ADVANCED
Totem-Proto Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chicken Shit Salad S 
Direct North Face T 
Drop 'em South S 
Fern Gully Arete S 
Fruits of Optomisim, The S 
GTKO T 
Inertia T 
Milk of Manatee T 
Original Optomist T 
Overcoming Inertia T 
Pathological Optimist T,S 
Pipe Bomb T 
Pipe Cleaner T 
Protean Catch T 
Proto Pipe S 
Proto Type T 
Shakin' & Eggs T 
Totem Pole Direct S 
Totem Pole, The S 
Up in Smoke T 
Unsorted Routes:

Shakin' & Eggs 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Geir, Marcy, Rick C
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 147
Submitted By: Geir on Apr 25, 2013

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Description 

This route starts at the second weakness to the left of Chicken Shit Salad. To my knowledge it is the first route to top out on this formation.

Pitch 1 - Climb the crack past a bolt to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 2 - Traverse directly left to a bolt. Clip it, move up & left past a second bolt, then traverse around the arete to the east face. Work up the left side of this face on exposed terrain protected by bolts and small gear. The pitch ends on top of the tower that forms the lower summit of the formation. Kinda bold and scary.

Pitch 3 - A short pitch to the top of the formation. Belay in the middle of the summit at a bolt and a gear placement.

Descent: Rap to the top of pitch two. From here rap down the chimney to the top of pitch one. One more rap takes you to the ground.

Pitch 2 and 3 still need a bit of cleaning so be cautious repeating this route until this has been done.


Location 

Second weakness left of Chicken Shit Salad. See beta photo.


Protection 

Stoppers, Singles to #3 Camalot. Extra .4"-1" cams.



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By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Apr 29, 2013

Way to go Marcy and Geir! Great to see these posted and thanks for the pic of Minas Morgul! I look forward to getting on these two climbs of yours, though I think we're nearing the end of Lower Devil's season this year. Shall see what the coming weekend brings. Hope you'll had a great trip to Red Rocks!