This route ascends the bulging north face using the arete. A moderate start leads past 2 bolts to a ledge. Continue up the arete using handholds on the edge of the right side of the arete with your body & feet on the left. The first holds are good. Then the holds are small, sharp, painful crimpers. The crux at the last two bolts moves up the face & then left to end at a juggy horizontal break. Traverse right up the break. A very short corner leads to the anchor.
This is left of The Other One & right of the North Crack on the arete of the bulging north face.
6 bolts / 2 Fixe rings.
|By John Dubya|
Aug 9, 2012
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Really fun and well bolted if you want to climb at your limit. Basically 3 bolts of 5.7 to a V5/V6 boulder problem. If you can on-sight this sucker without the draws pre-hung, you are a bad-azz. The crux is surprisingly over hung with a reachy off balance hand match. Could this be 12b? Yea maybe...Get on it!
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 15, 2012
Was told it was 5.11.
Very lousy warm-up!