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Third Buttress
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Shake And Not Stir 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Jim Patton
Page Views: 299
Submitted By: ---- on Apr 2, 2012

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Description 

This route justifies the long hike to the third buttress. It climbs a sweeping parabolic wall with no discontinuities. The movement is athletic and thuggish.

Begin by climbing through two bolts of slopey jugs, being sure to use your heels effectively to make the steep angle more manageable. The third bolt is a bit tricky to clip, so it would be to your advantage to pre-hang the draw with a really long stick. The crux is around the third bolt and can be done a couple different ways. Post crux the angle gets more vertical and the climbing eases. One last surprising sequence is encountered a bolt below the chains. Use some strange two finger pockets and a couple small edges before manteling out the final ledge.

The rock on this one is a bit suspect in spots, but the movement makes up for what it lacks in rock quality.


Location 

Far right side of the third Buttress. Last route in the cave.


Protection 

8 bolts + anchor



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By BrianWS
Jun 8, 2014

CONDITION REPORT 

There are two pieces of fixed gear on this route. There is a bleached, stiff nylon permadraw at the second bolt and a stout chain on the third. There is enough room for your own draw on the second bolt, which may be a good idea given the appearance of the sling that is currently there.

By Darren in Vegas
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 1, 2012

I think the name of this one is "Shake and not Stir" a play on words that refers to shaking out on a hold without knocking yourself off, but sounds like "shaken not stirred." Jim and I climbed together some around the time he fired this one and this is what I recall him saying.
However, this was some time ago and memories fade....

By ----
Nov 2, 2012

Sounds like you know what you are talking about. Good enough for me. Name changed.