If you came to the crag looking to tick 5.12, Shaggin Wagon is the route for you. This is not to say that the route is easy for the grade--far from it. Shaggin Wagon is all of 12a; however, success depends more on being tall than being strong.
The crux is at the bottom after which it's all about hanging on. If you are tall, the first move shouldn't be much of a problem. Expect a deadpoint to a pretty good hold. If you are short...well, I'm tall, so your struggles are alien to me.
The difficulties continue up a cool undercling/layback feature. Good foot work is key. Pumpy edges follow to the anchors. I've heard people call this route 12c, though they were all pretty short.
|Comments on Shaggin Wagon