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Shagg Crag

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Agro Shagg S 
Block Buster S 
Cell Block D S 
Continental Divide T 
Cut Split and Delivered S 
Death to the Queen S 
Deja Voodoo S 
Diesel S 
Diesel Bob S 
Fat Bastard S 
Fat Pig S 
Fuzzy Rhino Slippers  S 
Ginseng Route S 
Great Escape, The S 
Grimas De Oro 
It Ain't Pretty Being Easy S 
Kick to the Teeth S 
Late for Dinner S 
Long and Short of It, The S 
Looney Tunes S 
Loopy Noodle Butt Conspiracy S 
Meltdown S 
Nice Tooth S 
Patches the Clown S 
Pushes Little Daisies S 
Raging Bull, The 
Recombinant DNA S 
Rhino Flake T 
Ritual , The S 
Rough Rhino S 
Screw It S 
Shagg It  S 
Shagg Zag S 
Shaggin Wagon S 
Short Bob S 
Short Shagg S 
Sour Diesel S 
Standard Route T 
Summer Smoke S 
Tightrope S 
Two Shaved Heads S 
Unitard S 
Unknown Name S 
Velvet Elvis S 
What About Bob? S 
What About Bobcat S 
When the fat lady sings S 
Zagg Shagg S 
Unsorted Routes:

Rest Day:
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Shagg Crag 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 44.4237, -70.5309 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 73,124
Administrators: Ladd Raine, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Jay Knower on May 21, 2007
Forecast:
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Shagg from across the pond

Description 

In my experience, granite rarely forms buckets and when it does form buckets, it's rarely steep. Shagg Crag has all three: steep, juggy, granite climbing.

Located about an hour away from North Conway, Shagg sees a fair amount of traffic, though it is still possible to have the crag by yourself on a sunny weekend. The crag gets afternoon sun and there is little to offer shade, so expect a warm climbing experience. This can be a great thing on sunny winter days, or a curse on sunny summer days. Get up early on warm days and climb until the wall comes into the sun.

Besides Waimea at Rumney, Shagg might be the most stacked cliff in all of New England. If you're looking for endurance-esque 5.12's, I can't think of a better crag. The guidebook lists twelve routes rated 5.12 and almost all of them are quality. Shaggin Wagon (12a), Ginseng Route (12c), Meltdown (12c/d), and Shagg It (12d), stand out as unique classics. If you're looking for routes of a more moderate grade, Shagg might offer enough for a day or so, and The Great Escape (10d) should not be missed.


Kayte on Shaggin Wagon
Kayte on Shaggin Wagon


Getting There 

From the south (North Conway):

Take Rte. 26 towards West Paris and turn right (east) onto Rte. 219.
After 4.8 miles, turn left (north) onto Tuell Hill Rd. Follow Tuell Hill Rd. until it dead-ends into Redding/Shagg Rds. just after a bridge. Reset your odometer at the bridge and turn left (west) onto Redding/Shagg Rds.
At 3.9 or 4.0 miles there is a pullout on the left. Park here; the trail starts on the other side of the road.

Follow the trail for about 10 minutes until you come to a pond and a trail junction (the left fork goes to the pond, the middle fork contours east around the pond, the right fork heads up a steep ridge/hill. Take the right fork up the hill for 15-20 minutes and keep your eyes peeled for a subtle climber's trail that branches off to the right (east) and drops down around to the Shagg Crag. If you miss this turn, you will continue for 5 minutes to an obvious trail junction (the righthand fork of which leads to the summit of Bald Mountain). This is a worthy detour and it is easy to visit the summit and then retrace your steps back to the climber's trail. Total hiking time is about 30-40 minutes.


Climbing Season


48 Total Routes


['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',19],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',3],['5.10',5],['5.11',8],['5.12',18],['5.13',8],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',2],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Shagg Crag:
Summer Smoke   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 35'   
The Great Escape   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport   
Fuzzy Rhino Slippers    5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   
Zagg Shagg   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Cell Block D   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport   
Short Bob   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 50'   
Shaggin Wagon   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport   
It Ain't Pretty Being Easy   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport   
Two Shaved Heads   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport   
Looney Tunes   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 60'   
Ginseng Route   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport   
Meltdown   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport   
Tightrope   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport   
What About Bobcat   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 70'   
Shagg It    5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
What About Bob?   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 65'   
Nice Tooth   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport   
Fat Pig   5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c     Sport   
When the fat lady sings   5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a     Sport   
Diesel   5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a     Sport, 50'   
Browse More Classics in Shagg Crag

Featured Route For Shagg Crag
Ginseng. Tightrope climbs the line of draws to the left. Photo by Adam Holmes.

Ginseng Route 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b  ME : Shagg Crag
Ginseng is perhaps the best route at Shagg. It's pretty much the perfect endurance test (for the Northeast). Start off a pile of boulders left of the obvious right-angling weakness of The Great Escape (10d).The first half of the route climbs up a beautiful pane of Shagg's trademark fine-grained granite. Unlike granite elsewhere in the area, this rock forms into perfect horizontal slots that make for good, if a bit slopey, handholds. A few taxing moves take you to a break. This is where the cliff...[more]   Browse More Classics in ME

Photos of Shagg Crag Slideshow Add Photo
Brett Cary on a classic arete in the Shagg boulder field.
Brett Cary on a classic arete in the Shagg boulder...
A look at the steepness
A look at the steepness
Grady on an unknown boulder problem just below the main cliff.
Grady on an unknown boulder problem just below the...
Chris Duelin eats pieces of Shagg Crag for breakfast.
Chris Duelin eats pieces of Shagg Crag for breakfa...
Trail head for Shagg Crag.  This is on the right and the parking is on the left.
Trail head for Shagg Crag. This is on the right a...
Comments on Shagg Crag Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 7, 2014
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Dec 8, 2007

Shagg Pond is one of the best cliffs in the country for 5.12 sport routes. If you are looking for technical routes, powerful routes, weird routes, or endurance routes, Shagg has a 5.12 for you.

By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Havertown, PA
Dec 12, 2007

Jay--
If you didn't post this area description, sooner or later I was going to have to! Thanks!

By Matty Zane
From: Freedom
Mar 23, 2008

Is their a guide book to this area? I know its listed in the rock climbing New England book, but I wan wondering if their was guidebook specifically for this area

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Mar 24, 2008

I happen to have a homemade guidebook complete with FAs and some topos. Feel free to contact me via email if you want a copy.

By Bjorn
From: Near Joshua Tree
Jul 19, 2008

For the most part Shagg Crag was developed in its entirety by Erik Mushial and Bob Parrott. I have it from the highest authority that the birth of Shagg took place over the course of one summer fueled by bong smoke and cases of warm beer. It would be safe to assume that any given route here, unless established in some later unrelated effort, should be credited as a collaboration of these two great New England climbers.

By Lanky
From: Portland, ME
Jul 21, 2008

Nate Kimball put up a least a route or two as well. I cannot comment on the presence of beer or bongs.

By chris deulen
From: Merriam, Kansas
Mar 29, 2009

The parking area is at the top of a steep hill, with the trail starting across the road. In the winter and early spring, this road is not plowed and one must park at the base of this hill to avoid the sticky snow and getting stuck on either side (which has happened several times this month already!). Also, the road becomes extremely muddy this time of year, and 4WD is strongly encouraged.

By andyscott
From: Massachusetts
Jun 30, 2010

Did a really cool link up today at the right end of the cliff. It starts on Cell Block D and then after the crux of Cell Block D traverses left into Looney Tunes. I have no idea of the name or grade. Anyone know?

By Dominic Benson
From: Bangkok, Thailand
Jul 30, 2010

can't forget Jim Ewing, "What about Bob" is rad.

By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Aug 25, 2010

Maybe its just me, but after a 3 hour, meandering drive from conway, I'm inclined to believe the the directions here were not quite right. Here are mine. I you follow them, I promise you will not get as lost as I did...

Take rt 26 towards West Paris, turn east onto 219. After 4.8 miles, turn left onto Tuell Hill Rd. After 1.6 miles take a left, continuing on Tuell Hill rd. After .9 miles, Tuell Hill rd. ends. Take a left on Reading. After 3.9/4 miles, there is a pullout on the left. Park here, the trail starts on the other side of the road.

Follow the trail for about 10 minutes until you come to a pond. At this trail junction, take the right path going up a steep hill. follow the path going uphill, and after 15/20 minutes when the trail starts to level off, take a small trail that breaks off right. After a couple minutes, you will be at the base of the crag.

By Mike Veazey
From: Exeter, NH
Apr 23, 2011

Two mystery pitches above Kick to the Teeth. One is a 7 bolt pitch at mid 5.10 the next finishes to the top of the cliff. Anyone know anything about these?

By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Jul 22, 2011

Shagg... the real deal yo!

By Jon Doty
Oct 11, 2011

Found a grigri there monday...pm me with the biner color, tape color and tell me whether it is a grigri 1 or 2 and I will return it to rightful owner.

By wrandolph
Apr 6, 2012

I was hoping for a trip to Shagg sometime this spring and had emailed Ladd for a guidebook. I guess he changed emails or isn't around or something, either way, I was wondering if anyone happened to have a copy of that homemade guidebook he had that could email it to me?

By chris deulen
From: Merriam, Kansas
May 29, 2012

You can print out a guide here: mountainproject.com/scripts/PrinterView.php?id=105964909

By Jcomeau
From: Hopkinton, MA
Mar 11, 2013

Is it dry yet?

By SCherry
From: San Diego, CA
Aug 5, 2014

Hey Jay -

Anyway this page can have all the unsorted routes sorted in. Would be super helpful since there is no guide and the cliff is easily described from L to R or R to L?

Thanks!

By Julek
Aug 7, 2014

I found some gear there 5 days ago. Anyone lose a set of quick draws and some lockers?

By Julek
Aug 7, 2014

I found some gear there 5 days ago. Anyone lose a set of quick draws and some lockers?