In my experience, granite rarely forms buckets and when it does form buckets, it's rarely steep. Shagg Crag has all three: steep, juggy, granite climbing.
Located about an hour away from North Conway, Shagg sees a fair amount of traffic, though it is still possible to have the crag by yourself on a sunny weekend. The crag gets afternoon sun and there is little to offer shade, so expect a warm climbing experience. This can be a great thing on sunny winter days, or a curse on sunny summer days. Get up early on warm days and climb until the wall comes into the sun.
Besides Waimea at Rumney, Shagg might be the most stacked cliff in all of New England. If you're looking for endurance-esque 5.12's, I can't think of a better crag. The guidebook lists twelve routes rated 5.12 and almost all of them are quality. Shaggin Wagon (12a), Ginseng Route (12c), Meltdown (12c/d), and Shagg It (12d), stand out as unique classics. If you're looking for routes of a more moderate grade, Shagg might offer enough for a day or so, and The Great Escape (10d) should not be missed.
Kayte on Shaggin Wagon Submitted By: Jay Knower on Dec 8, 2007
Getting There
Take rt. 26 to West Paris and turn onto rt 219. Drive 4.8 miles and here you will turn left onto Tuell Hill Rd. Follow this road for 1.6 miles and at the junction continue north on Shagg Pond Rd. You will pass Shagg Pond on your west side. Park at a large pullout on the left side of the road. This is the trailhead. Hike east on Bald Mountain trail till you come just south of a pond at this junction follow to the right up a steep trail for just under a mile. As the trail starts to level look for a path on the right that starts down to the left of Shagg Crag. This hike will take 30 to 40 minutes.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Shagg Crag:
What About Bob? (WAB) was bolted by Bob Parrot in '96/'97 and climbs the steep white section of rock to the right of Short Shagg, beginning in the thin band of quartzite-mixed rock that shoots straight up from the bouldery start. Cryptic and acrobatic (as described by Chris Cook), this route is hard to on-sight for 5.12 climbers. Tense climbing with a few possible sucker holds (depending on your height beta) lead to good jugs and a traverse to the right. Face climb to a big ledge, breath, and p...[more]Browse More Classics in ME
By Lanky From: Portland, ME Mar 12, 2013 CONDITION REPORT
Folks were up there last weekend. Still some dripping from above, but definitely climbable.
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Dec 8, 2007
Shagg Pond is one of the best cliffs in the country for 5.12 sport routes. If you are looking for technical routes, powerful routes, weird routes, or endurance routes, Shagg has a 5.12 for you.
By Chris Duca Administrator From: Hinesburg, Vermont Dec 12, 2007
Jay-- If you didn't post this area description, sooner or later I was going to have to! Thanks!
Is their a guide book to this area? I know its listed in the rock climbing New England book, but I wan wondering if their was guidebook specifically for this area
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Mar 24, 2008
I happen to have a homemade guidebook complete with FAs and some topos. Feel free to contact me via email if you want a copy.
For the most part Shagg Crag was developed in its entirety by Erik Mushial and Bob Parrott. I have it from the highest authority that the birth of Shagg took place over the course of one summer fueled by bong smoke and cases of warm beer. It would be safe to assume that any given route here, unless established in some later unrelated effort, should be credited as a collaboration of these two great New England climbers.
The parking area is at the top of a steep hill, with the trail starting across the road. In the winter and early spring, this road is not plowed and one must park at the base of this hill to avoid the sticky snow and getting stuck on either side (which has happened several times this month already!). Also, the road becomes extremely muddy this time of year, and 4WD is strongly encouraged.
Did a really cool link up today at the right end of the cliff. It starts on Cell Block D and then after the crux of Cell Block D traverses left into Looney Tunes. I have no idea of the name or grade. Anyone know?
Maybe its just me, but after a 3 hour, meandering drive from conway, I'm inclined to believe the the directions here were not quite right. Here are mine. I you follow them, I promise you will not get as lost as I did...
Take rt 26 towards West Paris, turn east onto 219. After 4.8 miles, turn left onto Tuell Hill Rd. After 1.6 miles take a left, continuing on Tuell Hill rd. After .9 miles, Tuell Hill rd. ends. Take a left on Reading. After 3.9/4 miles, there is a pullout on the left. Park here, the trail starts on the other side of the road.
Follow the trail for about 10 minutes until you come to a pond. At this trail junction, take the right path going up a steep hill. follow the path going uphill, and after 15/20 minutes when the trail starts to level off, take a small trail that breaks off right. After a couple minutes, you will be at the base of the crag.
Two mystery pitches above Kick to the Teeth. One is a 7 bolt pitch at mid 5.10 the next finishes to the top of the cliff. Anyone know anything about these?
I was hoping for a trip to Shagg sometime this spring and had emailed Ladd for a guidebook. I guess he changed emails or isn't around or something, either way, I was wondering if anyone happened to have a copy of that homemade guidebook he had that could email it to me?
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