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|Administrators:||Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)|
|Submitted By:||Leo Paik on Aug 25, 2012|
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|Comments on Shaft||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Kirk Miller
From: Golden, CO
Aug 26, 2012
Who's the black private dick
That's a sex machine to all the chicks?
Ya damn right!
Who is the man that would risk his neck
For his brother man?
Can you dig it?
Who's the cat that won't cop out
When there's danger all about?
They say this cat Shaft is a bad mother.
SHUT YOUR MOUTH!
I'm talkin' 'bout Shaft.
THEN WE CAN DIG IT!
He's a complicated man,
But no one understands him but his woman.
By George Bracksieck
Jul 13, 2013
|Today, Dave, Holly and I followed what seemed like the most obvious ledge system around the left (west) side and found five bolted routes, each of which seems to be about 60 feet long. I led all but the hardest one, which I TRed. From left to right: 10a, 11, 9, 11a, and 8+. The hardest (5.11) shares its first three bolts with the 5.9, then angles left to tackle the biggest part of the biggest overhang.|
By George Bracksieck
Aug 26, 2013
Today, my wife and I went farther down the slope below the bottom of the northwest face. Amid the mossy, heavily lichened slab, we barely discerned a few bolts with black hangers. Thinking that this could be one of the two 5.7s that Kirk Miller said he put up on this side, I thought we should try it.
The only secure anchorage in the muddy gully was at a Douglas fir, just uphill from a precariously balanced block that was bigger than a refrigerator. (See photo on this page.) I led about 20 feet across the muddy gully and started up the rock to the first bolt. The moss and lichen were damp from recent monsoon rains, and the tiny bits of uncovered granite were still covered by grey, crustose lichen, which felt clammy. I continued carefully up the slippery face, thinking that this route was still a work in progress, awaiting a date with the wire brush that underneath the beard may lurk a preppy 5.7. With some loose rock thrown into the salad bowl, this pitch would be good for alpine training except that the seven bolts provided good pro.
Between the sixth and seventh bolts, an awkward mantel over a bulge felt like 5.9. I soon reached the grassy ledge where the other five routes begin and belayed from a 17-foot limber pine, about 75' above the start of the rock. We saw no other bolts or anchors on the lowest wall.
By Melvin Glerup
Nov 26, 2013
This email comment confirms that the so-called Pinecliffe climbing area is on Private Property. The Mountain Project should not publish that this is a climbing area.
There is no chance that this property will ever be available for public climbing, and all climbing should cease. No access is granted from the Lazy Z area to the north.
It is also time to remove the cable (tyrolean) as it is on Private Property on both sides of the creek.
Apparently No Trespassing signs and No Climbing Please signs have been ignored by many climbers, so this is another request to cease climbing at "Pinecliffe".
Melvin Glerup: 303-517-1253.