This crag offers tons of shade and generally steeper, shorter, and less sustained routes than the Sunny Side. If you like 'roped bouldering', this is a good place to push your limits on routes where stamina is not required.
The crag is divided into four sections, from left to right (E to W) they are:
1. Shady Side Left,
3. Far Side Left,
4. Far Side Right.
Generally it needs to be at least 70-75F in Alamogordo for this crag to be comfortable.
To approach, walk to the far W (downhill) end of the parking lot, look both ways, hold hands, and cross the road quickly to the S side of the highway. Large trucks often come barreling out of the tunnel, so don't expect anyone to slow down for you.
Once safely accross, surmount a short stone wall and scramble up slick limestone for about 15 feet. Pick up a decent climber's trail on the left, and switchback up the hill for 2 minutes. The trail ends at the far left side of "Shady Side Left", so head right along an exposed, scree covered ledge. The first route encountered is "Pipsqueak".
Weather station 1.5 miles from here
42 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',21],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Shady Side
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Shady Side:
Featured Route For Shady Side
Scott 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a NM
: New Mexico, other Southern ...
: ... : Shady Side Left
Start in the left angling seam on jugs then cut directly right to hit the dynamic move out to good left leaning ledge. Follow this up and left to get to the vertical face/crux with an obvious sequence and a deadpoint finish. A few face moves gets you to the flake/crack to follow to the anchors. A few of these moves down low are very close to Julie so time your ascents if people are on both....[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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