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Sunnyside Crags
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Shady Ladies 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Jineen Griffith and Barbara Euser, 1978
Page Views: 1,358
Submitted By: Matt Faust on Mar 7, 2004

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Shady Ladies Corner

Description 

Begin in the left facing corner that is located about 20 feet left of the low roof which forms a cave in the center of Sunnyside Crags. Climb the corner most of the way up, then move left onto the face. An easy hand traverse on loose holds takes you left to a ledge and a communla anchor. This is a good beginners lead, plus gives you the opportunity to top rope the excellent Magellanic Cloud.

Protection 

Standard rack to #3 camalot, bring long slings


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By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Feb 14, 2007

Climbs better than it looks. No idea why we traverse left to the shared anchor. A 5.7 roof tops the corner and would be a much nicer way to go... if there was an anchor up there.
By Matt McMurray
From: Castle Rock, CO
Apr 23, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This route is more like 100ft, as when you lower off it takes an entire 60m. I agree with Russ that continuing up through the roof seems like it would be a much better finish. Slightly better than 2 *'s.
By Jonathan Simonton
From: Chandler
Mar 23, 2012

Awesome route. Good lead if your new to leading. I am and I felt very secure on the wall.
By Franzalopolis
From: Mass.
Mar 5, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

First ever trad lead over 100 feet. Great c,IBM with lots of rests and foot holds. Watch out for rope drag. Definitely try to extend the climb when making the traverse over to the anchors.
By Mtnfly
From: El Segundo, Ca
Apr 1, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Fun climb at the grade. Good protection available throughout first 2/3 of climb. Then you transition from the corner to the face and into a leftward traverse......the protection is limited at best, and what ever you decide to place will make rope drag an issue for the last 10 feet......or so. Best if led....then bring up your second.....then you both rap. IMHO

The anchor is a mix of Tat and a " star" bolt. I backed it all up with bomber gear for belay and first rap. Very fun just have this in mind as you head up there. Would love to see a good anchor placed in there.