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Shady Deal 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Dan Hare and Stella Adams, July 2002
Page Views: 1,641
Submitted By: Bruce Pech on Oct 8, 2004
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BETA PHOTO: Shady Deal. Start just left of big pine tree. Cl...

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Description 

This is the bolted route between Father Figure and Splitting Hares described in Greg Hand's July 10, 2003 comment on Centennial. The 11c grade is an approximation; it may be easier....

Climb to the first bolt on Father Figure, then diagonal right past another bolt into a large, right-facing corner. The difficulties begin at the third bolt where the corner narrows and steepens. Stem precariously up past the fourth and fifth bolts to a small roof. Clip the bolt over the roof and crank it on mediocre hands (crux). Make another dicey move to pull into balance below the final slab. After clipping the last bolt, one or two moves in a finger crack lead to the anchors. Lower 40'.

Although the climbing from the third bolt to the anchors is sustained, the bolts are only 3'-5' apart.


Protection 

Seven bolts to a two-bolt anchor.



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Stem, stem, stem.
Stem, stem, stem.
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By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 29, 2005

This route is "Shady Deal", 5.11c/d, first ascent by Dan Hare and Stella Adams, July 2002, according to Mark Rolofson's new guidebook "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide Volume II - The Upper Canyon".

By Zach Allen
Apr 15, 2006
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Really fun route with precarious moves. Ridiculously over-bolted. Does it count as a lead if you always have a bolt clipped over your head?

By Richard Radcliffe
From: Louisville, CO
Sep 10, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

From below, the route looks like it might be kind of a weird-fest, but once you get into it, you'll find that it's really a stemmer's delight capped off with one or two nice, balancy slab moves to the anchor. Too bad it's so short...

By Aeon Aki
Administrator
Sep 8, 2008

Solid at .11c if you factor in the multiple z-clip cruxes.

By Andrew Shoemaker
From: Garden Valley, ID
Jun 2, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Way over bolted but excellent route. There is a bolt like every 5ft. Really cool moves and nice array of features. I would rate this at .11a/b

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 28, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

The number of extra bolts on the route is similar to the number of extra letter-grades it was given above its actual difficulty. But at least it is a fun patch of rock, even if a little short.