||Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA: ||Tony Bubb, Jason Haas, 9/07.|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Autumn, when not closed or snowed in|
|Page Views: ||120|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Sep 30, 2007|
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On the north end of the main crag of Sunset Rock, head up perhaps 20 meters until a striking zig-zag offwidth appears ('Off Width Her Head
'). This climb comes down to near the ground, stopping a few meters short at a bulge with big chock-stones (solid). From that point, a thin crack rises more directly upward. Climb the bulge (fist sized cam) and continue up the thin crack (small nuts and RPs) to a horizontal crack and a stance where you can build a belay on large cams (large hands to fists).
Belay here and work out a way off and right around an arete (a little runout, but not difficult) and up to a large ledge, where one can get back left to a tree and rap to the ground (fixed anchor here).
This is a thin crack on the North end of Sunset Rock, facing a descent gully. A low bulge with chock-stones is capped by a zig-zag offwidth on the left 'Off Width Her Head
' and a thin fingercrack on the right 'Shady Character' which diverge after a few feet of climbing.
A lot of small nuts, and a light rack of cams.
The main cracks are mostly thin gear and require some skill to protect.