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 ADVANCED
Sunset Wall
Select Route:
AC-DC T 
Climbing Non-Sunse T 
D1 T 
Fine Line T 
Home Run T 
Insane T 
Off Width Her Head! T,TR 
Shady Character T 
Solar Flare T 
Sunset Arete (Variation of Wind Song Dihedral) T 
Three's a Crowd T 
Wind Song Dihedral aka Original Route T 

Shady Character 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tony Bubb, Jason Haas, 9/07.
New Route: Yes
Season: Autumn, when not closed or snowed in
Page Views: 104
Submitted By: Tony B on Sep 30, 2007

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  • Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    On the north end of the main crag of Sunset Rock, head up perhaps 20 meters until a striking zig-zag offwidth appears ('Off Width Her Head'). This climb comes down to near the ground, stopping a few meters short at a bulge with big chock-stones (solid). From that point, a thin crack rises more directly upward. Climb the bulge (fist sized cam) and continue up the thin crack (small nuts and RPs) to a horizontal crack and a stance where you can build a belay on large cams (large hands to fists).
    Belay here and work out a way off and right around an arete (a little runout, but not difficult) and up to a large ledge, where one can get back left to a tree and rap to the ground (fixed anchor here).

    Location 

    This is a thin crack on the North end of Sunset Rock, facing a descent gully. A low bulge with chock-stones is capped by a zig-zag offwidth on the left 'Off Width Her Head' and a thin fingercrack on the right 'Shady Character' which diverge after a few feet of climbing.

    Protection 

    A lot of small nuts, and a light rack of cams.
    The main cracks are mostly thin gear and require some skill to protect.


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