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Routes in Sunset Wall
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AC-DC T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Climbing Non-Sunse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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D1 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fine Line T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Home Run T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Insane T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Off Width Her Head! T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Shady Character T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Solar Flare T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Sunset Arete (Variation of Wind Song Dihedral) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Three's a Crowd T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wind Song Dihedral aka Original Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Tony Bubb, Jason Haas, 9/07. |
| Page Views: | 778 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Sep 30, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
On the north end of the main crag of Sunset Rock, head up perhaps 20 meters until a striking zig-zag offwidth appears ('Off Width Her Head'). This climb comes down to near the ground, stopping a few meters short at a bulge with big chock-stones (solid). From that point, a thin crack rises more directly upward. Climb the bulge (fist sized cam) and continue up the thin crack (small nuts and RPs) to a horizontal crack and a stance where you can build a belay on large cams (large hands to fists).
Belay here and work out a way off and right around an arete (a little runout, but not difficult) and up to a large ledge, where one can get back left to a tree and rap to the ground (fixed anchor here).
Belay here and work out a way off and right around an arete (a little runout, but not difficult) and up to a large ledge, where one can get back left to a tree and rap to the ground (fixed anchor here).
Location
This is a thin crack on the North end of Sunset Rock, facing a descent gully. A low bulge with chock-stones is capped by a zig-zag offwidth on the left 'Off Width Her Head' and a thin fingercrack on the right 'Shady Character' which diverge after a few feet of climbing.
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