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Shady Character 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type: Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bob Eakle and Barry Young, 7/95
Page Views: 876
Submitted By: Matthew Seymour on May 13, 2007
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The roof variation

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Description 

Climb up the chimney for about 30 feet until a roof blocks your way. Face traverse left and gain a wonderful zig-zagging hand and finger crack. Continue up this crack to the top.

Highly recommended variation: Start left of the huge roof on the left. Traverse to the right under the roof, utilizing a tips to off finger crack (awesome). Pass the roof and set up a semi-hanging belay. Continue straight up the great zig-zagging crack to the top.

Descent: Walk right and rap from the bolts for Dovercourt.


Location 

About 30 feet downhill, left of Dovercourt.


Protection 

Nuts and cams: small to wide hands. Extra tight hand pieces make for a nice belay on the variation.



Photos of Shady Character Slideshow Add Photo
At the first belay. <br />The finger traverse left that leads to the great upper crack can just be seen at the top of the photo.
At the first belay.
The finger traverse left that ...
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By Jeremy Werlin
May 17, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

A bit contrived, but so much fun it is highly recommended. The lower section is interesting, too. Standard rack up to 1 #3 Camalot.