Shady Baby  5.9+ PG13

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Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65 feet Consensus:  5.9+ [details] FA:  Dave Rogers, LP Submitted By:  Leo Paik on Oct 16, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Dave starting into the crux section.

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Description 

This is another line that is just to the right of Shady Girl at the Garden Wall. This obvious line called out to be cleaned and climbed. It's partially clean at this point. A brush would be useful. It is probably safer as a TR than a lead.

Start about 6 feet to the right of Shady Girl. Follow a dihedral. The crux is likely exiting the tight dihedral on marginal gear (PG-13 or R). A decent #2 RP protects the exit from this dihedral. Higher up, you can finish left of a large, questionable block by clipping the last 3 bolts of Shady Girl or right on moderate face if on TR.

Rappel off the anchors for Shady Girl.

Just to clarify, the block sitting up ~3/4'rds the way up is too big to just launch with the road just below. It's fairly easy to avoid climbing right or left.

FWIW, this would be more challenging to lead for a shorter climber.

Location 

This ascends a dihedral about 6 feet to the right of Shady Girl.

Protection 

TR or a possible rack of red Alien, #0.75 Camalot, green Alien, #1 BD (marginal) or a knifeblade, #2 RP, #0.5 Camalot, blue Alien, yellow Alien, 3 bolts.