Climb up a large hunk of rock, then up the arete past an overhang. Continue up the arete to anchors near the top. Tall and exposed, it shares the same great view as Spawn.
Just right of Spawn, on the arete you pass under when you come to the wire hand-line leading to the Solstice Cave.
10 bolts, anchors
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 25, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
although aesthetic, this route should probably be avoided as its poorly bolted and continues needlessly higher than it should. rope drag is a BIG problem on this route and its a PITA to clean.
|By Gary Owen|
Mar 5, 2011
Harsh...I enjoyed it and didn't have any issues with bolting or drag.
From: Fort Collins, CO
Oct 20, 2011
There are issues with rope drag, but nothing that a few runners can't fix. Anyways, this route is one of the best 9s in the east and is well worth it. I personally love the final 20' "extension" at the top.
From: Decatur, GA
May 21, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
Lots to like about this route. Long and sustained with a lot of variety and great exposure. I had no problems whatsoever with rope drag or cleaning. Excellent lead!
|By Seth Derr|
From: harrisburg, pa
Oct 15, 2012
I didn't have any issues with drag, but i do agree the last couple bolts don't add anything to the route. Fun climbing up the arete for sure.
|By Jeff Edge|
Mar 13, 2013
Getting onto/around that big block at the start is always harder or more awkward than I remember... First time I led this was a long time ago, and only got on it to get my draws back after I bailed off of Spawn due to me being a total noob back then, and my partner even newer. Great route though, certainly one of the better 9s around, and climbing high is fun for a lot of us even if it doesn't "add" anything.
May 21, 2013
Warning: The first set of anchors are worn to a deadly degree. Do not toprope or rappel off them. Sling chicken head to the right of bad anchors to back them up. Make one more move to the top for better ring anchors.
- additional beta* - for the first 3 clips, use longer quickdraws or slings to avoid rope drag. Top belay your partner up for easiest cleaning - cleaning on rappel is difficult. Use the good anchors at the top not the first set of death ones. Bring sling and biner for chicken head. Overall fun, well protected, and easy for the grade.
From: Knoxville, TN
May 9, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
I had no problem with rope drag and I enjoyed the last 20' of the climb - great views. Anchors looked fine the day we climbed. We also didn't find the route hard to clean. We just climbed through the gear and cleaned it like any other sport route. Fun route for the grade with a fun move under the small roof.