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Middle Earth
Routes Sorted
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Afterthought TR 
Anduril S,TR 
Art Imitates Life S 
Art of the Pissant S 
Big Kahuna S 
Black Rider S,TR 
Caradhras T 
Cirith Ungol T 
Dimrill Stair T 
Dwarrowdelf T 
Easy Rider S,TR 
Fangorn Crack T,TR 
Fool's Gold S 
Gandalf T 
Glamdring S 
Isengard S 
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Khazaddum S 
Little Bruiser T 
Lord of the Rings S 
Marranon T,TR 
Merryanne TR 
Middle Finger TR 
Nameless Left of Dimrill Stair T,S 
Nameless Right of Shadowfax TR 
Nameless to the right of Fools Gold T,TR 
Orange Sunshine S 
Orc T 
Orthanc S 
Out on a Whim T 
Radagast T 
Risky Business T,S 
Rock Wrestling T 
Rocking the Dalai Lama S 
Room With A View T 
Sam I Am S 
Shadowfax T 
Shelob's Lair T 
Slice & Dice T 
Smeagol's Surprise T 
Strider TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Shadowfax 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,818
Submitted By: david baker on Jan 31, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (50)
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Shadowfax (5.8). Climber TRing Black Rider to the ...
Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Shadow Fax is the first climb you come to as you reach Middle Earth heading up from the south start of the climbers loop trail. Shadow Fax is a hand crack that widens to slightly off width as you get near the top. The crux comes near the bottom of the climb wear the crack moves slightly right with insecure feet (look to the small cracks to your right for help). The climbing is excellent and is good practise to improve your crack skills. The climb can be top roped by walking around the back of the rock and scrambleing up to the anchor. The crack is easily protectable and should be led.


Protection 

.5 to # 3 (a #4 can be used just don't admitt it to anybody). Bolt anchor and rap rings at top of climb.



Photos of Shadowfax Slideshow Add Photo
Shadow fax is the crack
Shadow fax is the crack
Clipping the big stuff on Shadowfax.
Clipping the big stuff on Shadowfax.
Sebastion heading up Shadowfax, the tough 5.8 hand, fist, and offwidth crack.  Little did he know the epic battle he would be engaged in moments later.
Sebastion heading up Shadowfax, the tough 5.8 hand...
Sebastion jamming the crack Shadowfax.
Sebastion jamming the crack Shadowfax.
Sebastion uses his big gear on Shadowfax.
Sebastion uses his big gear on Shadowfax.
Shadowfax from the bottom
BETA PHOTO: Shadowfax from the bottom
Comments on Shadowfax Add Comment
Show which comments
By Obi
From: Portland, OR
Feb 23, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A good clean crack. The crux is awkward rather than hard. Too bad it's not longer.

By Kyle Wills
From: San Diego CA
Dec 10, 2010

There just is very little reason to walk past this climb. Its a great warm up for harder cracks in the area.

By alleyehave
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 23, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

As I understand it, the route has two starts. The direct start has been rated 5.9 while the lieback start to the right considered 5.8. The lieback start is significantly easier but the protection could be tricky if you dont place a piece, downclimb a step or two and then start. I recommend the direct start :)

By RichWelker
From: Cardiff, Ca
Jun 20, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I'd say it's fair to call the direct start a 5.9. Haven't tried the layback method.