Jun 11, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
This route looks great from the ground, but its kind of a pile. The climbing is OK, but the rock quality is really poor. I literally broke 10 holds on this thing. After TR'ing half of it and breaking another 5 or so, my wife said "lower me, this isn't worth climbing". I thought it was pretty hard for 11a, but I am assuming some holds have vanished....
I could possibly look past this and give it a single star, but unfortunately the bolting job cast the deciding vote. Completely unnecessary clipping cruxes at the 3rd and 5th bolt combined with a runout above a ledge on steep, crumbly rock to get to the anchor (don't worry, there is a hidden hold if you are willing to bury your hand in mud and weeds....) earns the bomb.
If for some reason you feel compelled to climb this, have your partner hang the draws (including a 4 footer from the anchor).