Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
This was a wonderful find on the Eldo obscure tour. It's really a series of variations on The Bulge, with four short, high-quality pitches. We shared belays with The Bulge the whole way -- where The Bulge goes right each pitch, this route goes left. We don't think we did the third pitch right -- the guidebook says to belay in a small, red, right-facing corner and to climb straight up from an "alcove." We could see a small alcove about 10 feet left of the second belay on The Bulge, but there didn't seem to be any corner. That's probably where you're supposed to belay. We diagonaled up and left from The Bulge belay, climbing over a bulge with decent pro at about 5.10. The rest of the route matches the guidebook description nicely. Go do it!
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Sep 14, 2003 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a R
The 3rd pitch does start in said alcove. When you get there you can set pink and red tricams or a few similarly sized stoppers overhead in the crack you will see only upon arrival there. I belayed at the anchors though, and then went left as part of the next pitch. As well, we also did the bulge/roof just left of the bolted belay of the roof- took a orange HB microcam and a few stoppers, but none were very good. A second small cam would have made me feel better (.3") but was not on my rack, so we did without. Moves are juggy to a good pinch and then sloper there. Nice variation.
By Shane Zentner From: Colorado Oct 7, 2007 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a R
The crack on pitch two is great until it ends half way through the pitch. Where the crack ended, I climbed straight up and left to join the anchors for 'The Bulge'. I started the third pitch from the bolt anchors, headed up and left, and found myself seriously runout with questionable gear placements down and right from me. After repeated attempts I retreated and probably did a variation of the third pitch.