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 ADVANCED
The Brown Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brown 25 T 
Brown Trousers (aka Mr. Hankey) T 
Brownian Motion (aka Brown and Serve) T 
Brownies in Motion (AKA Brownian Motion) T 
Captain Kronos T 
James Brown T 
Jerry Brown T 
Sgt. Saturn T 

Sgt. Saturn 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Todd Swain and Donette Smith, April 1995
Season: hopefully dry
Page Views: 156
Submitted By: Brian in SLC on Jan 4, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Patty susses out the opening moves of Sgt. Saturn.

Description 

Tough start on creaky holds leads to easier ground.

Boulder out the opening moves then follow crack features above the right facing corner until its reasonable to cross the slab to the right (towards the sweeping finger crack in the left facing wall).

Right side corner looks pretty sparse for pro so maybe better to place gear in the crack high on the left, then cross over and hit up that sweeping finger crack for pro.

Gain troughy ledge. Up and on the right hand side of the trough, just to the left is a nice hand crack leading to main ledge for a just-shy-of-100-foot pitch, or, continue up another 8 feet to summit of the wall (easy 4th class scramble).

A spot on the start may be prudent in case a foot or flake blows. Take care. Kinda sandy.

Location 

Located about 10 feet left of Brown and Serve at a right facing corner with a potentially handy boulder (a few feet closer would make the first moves a bunch easier) to lace the boots on just below the start. Walk off route.

Protection 

Standard rack. A smallish stopper and/or cam or two might protect the opening moves (an especially tall person might lean across from the boulder at the base and place something reasonable). No fixed gear. No anchor on top. Plenty of crack-age up top for a variety of cams/nuts for a top anchor. Medium nuts/cams seem to fit fairly well.


Photos of Sgt. Saturn Slideshow Add Photo
The P girl contemplates the fun step across the sl...
The P girl contemplates the fun step across the sl...
Banks ready to top out Sgt. Saturn.
Banks ready to top out Sgt. Saturn.

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