Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Hand Jam  5.10b

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Consensus:  5.10b [details] FA:  Tobin Sorenson, late'70s Submitted By:  Brian Prince on Nov 18, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

oh yeah

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Description 

Start below the crack and head up a little seam with no pro (5.7) and some moss. Reach a good stance at the base of the crack. Look up (this thing is steep!) and take some deep breaths. Get in some good gear and commit yourself. If you're a wimp, like me, you can use a face hold out right after you get established. Reach for some fist/arm jams and pull the crux, while imagining being on the FA solo. Struggle on up to a good stance and continue to the top of the crack. Then climb to the anchors passing an old bolt, not that hard.

Location 

Obstructed by trees, but hard to miss if you've found jamcrack wall. Although this is probably how one identifies jamcrack wall.

Protection 

I placed one #.75, one #4, and one #2 (new camalots and in that order). #4 went in at the crux, but I think you could get by with a #3 if you don't want a #4. More or less of the the same depending on what you think. Said old bolt and then one or two pieces for the top. Two bolt anchor. Or move to the left before clipping the bolt for a different two bolt anchor

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yup