|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 70'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Tobin Sorenson, late'70s|
|Submitted By:||Brian Prince on Nov 18, 2010|
|Comments on Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Hand Jam||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Jim Reynolds
Jun 4, 2011
|Ya its definately very possible to do the crux move with a number 3... We even had a #4 but the #3 seemed to be less in the way. Fun route. It looks OW but there are solid fist jams|
By Trevor V.
From: Santa Barbara, Ca
Nov 26, 2011
|Went with the #3 at the crux. It fits well in the right spot. Not really sure you need any pro there if you have done it before.|
By Brian Prince
From: morro bay, ca
Feb 18, 2013
|I did this again yesterday. Sweet and burly but just a bit short! I placed a 3 in the middle this time too; there is perfect spot for it right in front of your face. Definitely go left after the crack. I didn't even see the anchor straight above. You'll be able to TR some really steep, powerful, bouldery seam/crack too.|
By Ryan Nevius
From: The Range of Light
Jul 9, 2014
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Due to the 20' runout off the deck on suspect rock, an initial crack that is hollow and exfoliating, a very short crux, one of the worst bolts and hangers I've seen on the mountain, and huge, loose blocks at the top of the climb...I'd give this route a half a star after leading it. It's probably more enjoyable as a toprope, unless you're into those kinds of things.
Also, a #3 Camalot protects the crux. I'm not sure why you'd want a #4.