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Primal Wall Area
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American Life S 
Apollos Crack T 
Godhole, The T 
SGT Baker T,S 
Southbound Pachyderm T,S 
Things that Shouldn't be T 

SGT Baker 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ron Yahne
Page Views: 134
Submitted By: Danjerous87 on Feb 6, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Climbers on SGT Baker

Description 

Climb 10ft right of the pillar, following the large chickenheads and crystals to the vertical cracks. From mid-station anchors, follow large crystals and bolts to the anchors

Location 

65' to climbers right of the high point. Locate the large pillar/flake: the route starts 10ft right of this

Protection 

Red C#-#3, nuts, 8 bolts


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By Wilson On The Drums
From: Woodbury, MN
May 10, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

American Life is 4 stars in the guide book and after climbing and thoroughly enjoying it I thought I would give this, Sgt Baker, supposed 3 star route, a try. I would say don't even bother. The route is covered in moss, lichen, and dirt. The only 5.9 move comes after the 3rd bolt and once you get into the vertical cracks you run into some real chossy rock and you have to work your way around the greenery. I didn't bother finishing the climb after the mid-point anchors but it didn't look like it got much better. Now don't get me wrong, with more traffic and a thorough rain storm to clean this up it could be fun, just not for me right now. Also, a 60meter will just, just barely, get you down from the mid-point anchors.
By Jim Slichter
From: Hill City, SD
Jul 8, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Did this climb over the July 4th weekend and definitely agree with Wilson's comments. The rock is dirty and of questionable quality almost the whole way up. The climbing above the mid point anchors is much better than the first part of the route but still not worthy of a two star route.