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 ADVANCED
The Far Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
18NY (aka The Chickens are Breastless) T,S 
At Last S 
Atlas S 
Atlas Shrugged S 
Baby Atlas (aka The Chickens are Restless) S 
Better Eat Your Wheaties T,S 
Boneless Chicken Ranch T 
Bushy Crack T 
Cereal Killer S 
Chief, The S,TR 
Continental Drift Whiplash T 
Curse of Madame C S 
Death to the right T 
Far S 
Far Out S 
Far Side Chimney T 
Farther S 
Farthing, The T 
Feelin' Your Oats T 
Gorilla Finishing School S 
Hummingbird Spire, N. Face T 
Initiation Rite T 
Jardinero S 
Koka T 
Kola S 
Left Behind T 
Lichen It T 
Mystery Hole S,TR 
Near Side Chimney T 
New Tradition S,TR 
Night of the Crash Test Dummies S 
Old Spice T 
Old Tradition T 
Pile, The T 
Planet of the Grapes 5.6 T 
Rite of Passage T 
Saviour Heart T,S 
Scorpion's Chair S 
Separation Anxiety S,TR 
Seymour Frishberg T 
Shute-Mills Route S 
Something Good S,TR 
Spellcaster S 
Sport Roof Left S 
Sport Roof Right S 
Step To The Left T,S 
Synchronicity S 
Tradfest T 
Two-Bolt Slab T,S 
War Party S,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Seymour Frishberg 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Robin Madgewick and Ken Stanton
Page Views: 1,276
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Apr 12, 2002  with updates from eric berghorn

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

Continue on the path that led to The Far Side, past the rock with Step To The Left. About 40 feet later, there's a steeper path leading downhill and right (as you're facing downhill). Follow this for ~100 feet to another large rock, Seymour Frishberg is the climb up the south-facing arete.Since the first bolt is ~20 feet off the ground, you may want to approach it from the left side, though the bottom climbing is really fun. The arete itself is very fun and very exposed, you have about a 270 degree view, and it seems like you much further off the ground due to the steepness of the hillside the rock is on. The runout scares the crap out of you, but the climbing isn't too difficult, so it just adds to the experience.

Protection 

3 bolts to the same 2 bolt anchor as Boneless Chicken Ranch.

If you lead this without using trad pro, it's extremely run out between the 2nd and 3rd bolt... enough so that falling could result in a 60 foot ground fall.

The run-outs can be protected with supplemental cams before and after the steep bolted section. Climbing these routes without placing additional protection pieces remains a heady challenge. I would list SF as a trad climb since the first ascentionists used camming units in addition to bolts to protect the lead....


Comments on Seymour Frishberg Add Comment
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By Dodrill
From: Sebastopol, CA
Mar 12, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

FA: Robin Madgewick and Ken Stanton

Bolts on this route are scary. Optional: Bring a couple cams (3/4" to 1.5") to protect the middle of the route between the second and third bolts.
By splitclimber
Sep 4, 2012

hard 5.9. too spooky for me to lead it. can TR with a directional. Stanton told me that it is really a mid-10 at the crag one day. should plug some gear before the first bolt too.
By jimi thornburg
Sep 11, 2013

The first two bolts have been replaced with stainless steel glue-ins. You still need gear and solid technique to make this a safe lead.... certainly not X though? PG ok.