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Continue on the path that led to The Far Side, past the rock with Step To The Left. About 40 feet later, there's a steeper path leading downhill and right (as you're facing downhill). Follow this for ~100 feet to another large rock, Seymour Frishberg is the climb up the south-facing arete.Since the first bolt is ~20 feet off the ground, you may want to approach it from the left side, though the bottom climbing is really fun. The arete itself is very fun and very exposed, you have about a 270 degree view, and it seems like you much further off the ground due to the steepness of the hillside the rock is on. The runout scares the crap out of you, but the climbing isn't too difficult, so it just adds to the experience.
3 bolts to the same 2 bolt anchor as Boneless Chicken Ranch.
If you lead this without using trad pro, it's extremely run out between the 2nd and 3rd bolt... enough so that falling could result in a 60 foot ground fall.
The run-outs can be protected with supplemental cams before and after the steep bolted section. Climbing these routes without placing additional protection pieces remains a heady challenge. I would list SF as a trad climb since the first ascentionists used camming units in addition to bolts to protect the lead....
From: Sebastopol, CA
Mar 12, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
FA: Robin Madgewick and Ken Stanton
Bolts on this route are scary. Optional: Bring a couple cams (3/4" to 1.5") to protect the middle of the route between the second and third bolts.
Sep 4, 2012
hard 5.9. too spooky for me to lead it. can TR with a directional. Stanton told me that it is really a mid-10 at the crag one day. should plug some gear before the first bolt too.
By jimi thornburg
Sep 11, 2013
The first two bolts have been replaced with stainless steel glue-ins. You still need gear and solid technique to make this a safe lead.... certainly not X though? PG ok.