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 ADVANCED
The Far Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
18NY (aka The Chickens are Breastless) 
At Last 
Atlas 
Atlas Shrugged 
Baby Atlas (aka The Chickens are Restless) 
Better Eat Your Wheaties 
Boneless Chicken Ranch 
Bushy Crack 
Cereal Killer 
Chief, The 
Curse of Madame C 
Death to the right 
Far 
Far Out 
Far Side Chimney 
Farther 
Farthing, The 
Feelin' Your Oats 
Gorilla Finishing School 
Hummingbird Spire, N. Face 
Initiation Rite 
Jardinero 
Koka 
Kola 
Left Behind 
Lichen It 
Mystery Hole 
Near Side Chimney 
New Tradition 
Night of the Crash Test Dummies 
Old Spice 
Old Tradition 
Pile, The 
Planet of the Grapes 5.6 
Rite of Passage 
Saviour Heart 
Separation Anxiety 
Seymour Frishberg 
Shute-Mills Route 
Something Good 
Sport Roof Left 
Sport Roof Right 
Step To The Left 
Synchronicity 
Tradfest 
Two-Bolt Slab 
War Party 
Unsorted Routes:

Seymour Frishberg 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a X

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Robin Madgewick and Ken Stanton
Page Views: 1,167
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Apr 12, 2002
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Description 

Continue on the path that led to The Far Side, past the rock with Step To The Left. About 40 feet later, there's a steeper path leading downhill and right (as you're facing downhill). Follow this for ~100 feet to another large rock, Seymour Frishberg is the climb up the south-facing arete.Since the first bolt is ~20 feet off the ground, you may want to approach it from the left side, though the bottom climbing is really fun. The arete itself is very fun and very exposed, you have about a 270 degree view, and it seems like you much further off the ground due to the steepness of the hillside the rock is on. The runout scares the crap out of you, but the climbing isn't too difficult, so it just adds to the experience.


Protection 

3 bolts to the same 2 bolt anchor as Bonless Chicken Ranch. Extremely run out between the 2nd and 3rd bolt... enough so that falling could result in a 60 foot ground fall.



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By Dodrill
From: Sebastopol, CA
Mar 12, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R

FA: Robin Madgewick and Ken Stanton

Bolts on this route are scary. Optional: Bring a couple cams (3/4" to 1.5") to protect the middle of the route between the second and third bolts.

By splitclimber
Sep 4, 2012

hard 5.9. too spooky for me to lead it. can TR with a directional. Stanton told me that it is really a mid-10 at the crag one day. should plug some gear before the first bolt too.

By jimi thornburg
Sep 11, 2013

The first two bolts have been replaced with stainless steel glue-ins. You still need gear and solid technique to make this a safe lead.... certainly not X though? PG ok.