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Turtle Rock - South Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Desert Shield 
Integrity 
Jesus Lives 
Kippy Korner 
Lieback and Lingerie 
Satanic Mechanic 
Sexy Sadye 
Wind Burn 
Unsorted Routes:

Sexy Sadye 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Charles Cole, Steve Anderson (1983)
Page Views: 352
Submitted By: Bryan G on Feb 17, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: Sexy Sadye, 5.10+

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Description 

This route is found on the Southeast corner of Turtle Rock, a few hundred feet to the right of Satanic Mechanic. Some smearing, crimping, and a couple mantles take you past 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor/rappel. This was incorrectly given an "R" rating in the Joshua Tree West guide. The climb is a fun and well protected lead. There is even a solid gear placement between the 1st and 2nd bolt if you're worried about blowing the 5.7 moves there.


Protection 

4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rappel
optional .25" cam



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By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 17, 2010

All the bolts on this were replaced in Spring 2000.

By Phil Esra
Mar 18, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b R

At 5'6", the moves below the 2nd bolt are 5.10, and falling = decking. Dangerously run out. You might be able to get an offset mastercam or alien to stick in the shallow flare, but you wouldn't wanna fall on it. Fun, improbable slab moves if you're solid at the grade.