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 ADVANCED
Loch Vale & uphill
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alaskarado 
Brain Freeze 
Central Buttress T 
Circling Sharks T 
Cold Storage 
Crypt, The T 
Deep Freeze T 
Dirty Peeps Variation 
Dog House T 
Double Tap T 
Dry Ice T 
Freezer Burn 
Inquisition, The T 
Leftist Activity 
Necrophilia T 
North Face Icefield T 
North Gully 
Northwest Buttress of Powell 
Northwest Face Route - Thatchtop or Northeast Gully? T 
Petit Gully, The T 
Plan D T 
Prise de Fer T 
Production, The T 
Quicksilver T 
Sex With A Live Person T 
Sublime Vision T 
Taylor Glacier T 
Timberline Falls T 
Upper Wall 
Vanquished (Powell Peak) 
Wham Couloir T 
Womb with a View T 
Unsorted Routes:

Sex With A Live Person 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a WI3-4

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a WI3-4 [details]
FA: Ben Collett, Erik Rieger
Page Views: 488
Submitted By: erik rieger on Nov 4, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: The wall above Loch Vale showing various smears. T...

Description 

There are a few smears located high above the Loch Vale cragging area. I have not seen them before, likely due to this fall's wet weather. It's surely possible they've been climbed before, but I wanted to add the info to the database for others to go explore.

We climbed the obvious smear on the right after our planned route at Sky Pond didn't pan out. Ben suggested the name, since it's like a tamer version of Necrophilia.

It is a worthwhile climb if you're looking for something mellow and away from the crowds early season or to combine with the NW gully route and other short climbs for a longer day out.

The left-most flow is lower-angle but takes on a long gully.

Location 

This is on the northern aspect of Thatchtop, directly above the Loch Vale cragging area. Approach as for Deep Freeze/Necrophilia up to the lake, but move left (east) across the moraine bench below those routes to reach the smears. It's easy to see from the trail if they're in or not.

Protection 

We soloed the route, so there's no rap anchor. Build one or walk off skier's left down a technical and exposed gully. Protection would be thin on the first half, bring rock gear.


Photos of Sex With A Live Person Slideshow Add Photo
The one we climbed—a long, thin flow left of the prominent gully.
BETA PHOTO: The one we climbed—a long, thin flow left of the p...

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