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Loch Vale & uphill
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Central Buttress T 
Cold Storage 
Crypt, The T 
Deep Freeze T 
Dirty Peeps Variation 
Dog House T 
Double Tap T 
Dry Ice T 
Freezer Burn 
Inquisition, The T 
Leftist Activity 
Necrophilia T 
North Face Icefield T 
North Gully 
Northwest Buttress of Powell 
Northwest Face Route - Thatchtop or Northeast Gully? T 
Petit Gully, The T 
Plan D T 
Prise de Fer T 
Quicksilver T 
Sex With A Live Person T 
Sublime Vision T 
Taylor Glacier T 
Timberline Falls T 
Tunnel Vision T 
Upper Wall 
Vanquished (Powell Peak) 
Womb with a View T 

Sex With A Live Person 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a WI3-4

Type:  Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a WI3-4 [details]
FA: Ben Collett, Erik Rieger
Page Views: 828
Submitted By: erik rieger on Nov 4, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: The wall above Loch Vale showing various smears. T...


There are a few ice flows located high above the Loch Vale cragging area. They've probably been climbed before, but I wanted to add the info for others to go explore. We climbed the obvious flow on the right after our planned route at Sky Pond didn't pan out. Ben suggested the name, since it's like a tame version of Necrophilia. It's worthwhile if you're desperate but not into the dead thing, or you could combine with the NW gully and other short climbs. The left-most flow is lower-angle but takes on a long gully.


This is on the northern aspect of Thatchtop, directly above the Loch Vale cragging area. Approach as for Deep Freeze/Necrophilia up to the lake, but move left (east) across the moraine bench below those routes to reach the smears. It's easy to see from the trail if they're in or not.


We soloed the route, so there's no rap anchor. Build one or walk off skier's left down a technical and exposed gully. Protection would be thin on the first half, bring rock gear.

Photos of Sex With A Live Person Slideshow Add Photo
The one we climbed—a long, thin flow left of the p...
BETA PHOTO: The one we climbed—a long, thin flow left of the p...

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