||Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA: ||Mark Jero, Eric Harp, Kevin Gonzales, 1988|
|Season: ||warmer Shelf months (shady)|
|Page Views: ||70|
|Submitted By: ||slim on May 25, 2014|
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This is another burly warm-up at the Peg Leg Wall. In previous guidebooks ,this was listed at 11a. It is harder than Best For Your Stick
but considerably easier than Corn Dog
Begin from a table-like ledge (I recommend stick clipping first bolt), and make barndoor-ish moves up the face and arete, past many pockets and a couple more bolts to the anchor. It starts out a little bit steep and ends up on lower angled terrain.
There isn't much chalk, so expect to spend some time figuring out which pockets are good and which ones are not.
From where the trail meets the wall at the far right side of the wall underneath the roof route 'Adversary', walk left about a couple hundred feet. You will see a small trail that goes up to a deep, dark corner. On the left face of the corner is 'Best For Your Stick
'. Around the arete to the left is Sex Wax. Scramble up and left onto a ledge that makes a nice seat.
3 or 4 bolts plus anchors. I recommend having your belayer up on the ledge and stick clipping the first bolt.