This is one of the dirtier routes on the First Tier, but it has hard climbing to start (but not much fun for me) and easier but fun climbing at the top. In the middle it was dodging moss and bushes.
Sex Slave is the leftmost route on the upper level of the First Tier. It starts at a big tree 15 feet left of a large flat block embedded in the ground.
Getting past the initial irregular and flared finger crack is the crux. Place one or two finger-sized cams, clip the bolt, and get established on the face above. This felt hard to me. The jams for the most part aren't (jams), there are many mediocre holds to choose from, and it's strenuous. Hard to onsight if you climb at this level.
Climb easier dirty rock above past three more bolts until below the left edge of the roof. Optionally place a piece in the roof and make some fun 8ish moves left and into the left-facing corner above. The bigger (up to 2") cams go here. A couple more moves lead to the anchor.
The bolts on this route aren't strictly necessary, but neither are they a bolting of continuous cracks. There is good gear near the first bolt, but it would be strenuous to place, and if it failed you might be on the ground. Above that there is gear and/or it's easy, but the rock is a little funky.
Single set of cams from finger sized (yellow Alien) to 2" (#2 Friend). 4 bolts plus 2-bolt anchor with rings.
|By Ron Olsen|
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 20, 2004
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Strenuous climbing that seems harder than 10c. The flared crack at the start saps arm strength while you're hanging out placing pro and clipping the first bolt. I used a red Alien to protect the opening moves. The crux is getting to the second bolt before you flame out; I find this easier to do climbing up left of the first bolt, laybacking my feet up the slanting crack. Past the second bolt, the climbing eases significantly and goes through some bushy sections to the roof. Bring a #.75 and #1 Camalot or equivalent to protect the upper corner after you turn the roof.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jun 22, 2005
FYI - a foothold broke on me climbing this route this morning, the left foot just at the 'roof' (look in the picture at the bent red arrow, the foot hold was right where the bend is in that red arrow in the picture). Fortunately, belayer was standing to the side since we know full well how much loose junk is on this route. It was still a big surprise when the foothold broke though, since that part of the rock looked completely solid. Route grade is unaltered, simply smear a bit to the left of where the hold broke.
Lots of rockfall this year folks, be careful out there. Thats the real point of this post. :-)
PS - at least the third time I've climbed this and I'd bet money I'd used that foothold before.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 23, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
5.10b as a sport-grade. 9+ trad. The gear down below goes well as a red Alien, but at that time you are just below the bolt and one more move gets you there. The fingers are reasonably secure but the feet are not so good, so depending on strength and endurance, you may not want to bother with geat at all. Up top, a smaller Alien would go left of the roof to reduce drag (green one?) and then maybe a #0.75 or #1 Camalot in the corner to the anchors. Climbers who feel largely secure on 5.10 could skip either the gear or the bolts, if they brought a rack.
Reasonably good climb with a trashy section in the middle.
|By Ryan Malaty|
From: Broomfield, CO
May 2, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Very fun climb.
Yes, it is hard at first I didn't protect it though, sometimes it is better for me just to go for the bolt then to waste energy hanging on a micro-crimp to set a piece.
After the first couple of bolts, it's easier and a little mossy.
The roof go to the left and stem up into a lie-back about 8 feet and I placed a 0.75 Camalot. That was fine until the anchor.
Commit to the moves!
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 10, 2010
This thing is totally scummy up top in the crack that you climb the last 10 feet to the anchors. The rest of it is actually quite clean despite the appearance that you'll be ascending through shrubbery. Any pro about a 1/2" wide will work up there, but it's no fun feeling like you're standing in a garden while you might be trying to place. Yick.
|By keith story|
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 30, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Because I'm crazy and stupid, I did this with just the bolts, no trad. Sketchy, but pretty easy for 5.10c. Getting to the second bolt is tough, but the possibility of breaking a leg makes it seem easier.
Fun climb, I would recommend the trad gear though if you don't want to gamble. Beginning tests your layback strength. Nasty stuff in the middle. Best suicidal onsight of my life.