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Routes in Punk Rock
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A Guide's Portion of Vino T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Bits and Pieces S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Climb Down By The River S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Jonny Rotten S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Kibble 'n Bits S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Never Mind the Bollocks S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Right Down the Line S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sex Pistol S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sex Pistol (Left Variation) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 75 ft (23 m) |
| FA: | Keith Ainsworth, Mary Riedmiller |
| Page Views: | 1,779 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Keith Ainsworth on Oct 17, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Description
Sex Pistol, is the middle line on Punk Rock and has two 5.12 cruxes. The first 5.12 crux is traversing left through bulges past bolt 5 with a good rest under the roof. Climbing above the roof is a hard 11+ move, but now you encountered more 12 climbing up the red groove on the face for some very thin, elegant moves. Escape left out the groove at bolt 10, then up and back right passing two more bolts for a 5.10 airy finish to the anchors. Many people miss the second and best part of the route after taking the roof by escaping to the arete on the left and following it to the anchors (5.10). People who take this escape call the route 5.12a, but miss the 5.12 climbing found by going up the red groove.
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