|Middle East Wall
Although the crack looks splitter from below, the abundance of face holds and stems makes it difficult to climb in good jam fashion. Although a bit contrived, it is more interesting to only jam and to not stem over to Lingerie (this way it actually feels like 10.a).
Either way, fun climb.
Use chain anchor to the right, above Lingerie.
just right of Savage Heart, left of Lingerie in a right facing corner.
rack to 3"
Dec 17, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Another climb (like a zillion of them at Vantage) that gets easier if you stem out of the crack. BTW we first rated this one 5.8 if stayed in the crack and actually jammed. FWIW the FA was done by Dave Fulton and not Jay Koopsen as many of the guide books have reported in error over the years.
|By geoff georges|
From: Seattle, Wa.
Mar 21, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
This is one of the best cracks at the grade in Vantage.
Mar 26, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
You'll need gear in a 0.75 - 3 range. You can take a #4 with you which you'll likely place near the top, but you can do without it if you feel confident climbing at the grade. Extra #1s are useful :)