|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA:||Dane Burns and Jay Koopsen 84'|
|Submitted By:||Bryson Slothower on Jun 3, 2007|
|Comments on Sex Party||Add Comment|
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Dec 17, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
|Another climb (like a zillion of them at Vantage) that gets easier if you stem out of the crack. BTW we first rated this one 5.8 if stayed in the crack and actually jammed. FWIW the FA was done by Dave Fulton and not Jay Koopsen as many of the guide books have reported in error over the years.|
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Mar 21, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
|This is one of the best cracks at the grade in Vantage.|
Mar 26, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
|You'll need gear in a 0.75 - 3 range. You can take a #4 with you which you'll likely place near the top, but you can do without it if you feel confident climbing at the grade. Extra #1s are useful :)|
By Jerry Drescher
Sep 7, 2015
Agree with Dane, about 5.8/5.8+ for normal Washington trad grades, although fairly true to grade for Vantage.
Extra number ones, or similar size hexes would be nice. Hexes place well and seem less likely to shatter the outside layer of rock.
No need for the number 4. Protects well without it, or you can clip a bolt on the neighbouring route with a long sling from the stanve where you'd place it