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Middle East Wall
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Fisting for Pleasure and Profit 
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Sex Party 
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Unsorted Routes:

Sex Party 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dane Burns and Jay Koopsen 84'
Page Views: 2,111
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Jun 3, 2007
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Sex party

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Description 


Although the crack looks splitter from below, the abundance of face holds and stems makes it difficult to climb in good jam fashion. Although a bit contrived, it is more interesting to only jam and to not stem over to Lingerie (this way it actually feels like 10.a).

Either way, fun climb.

Use chain anchor to the right, above Lingerie.


Location 

just right of Savage Heart, left of Lingerie in a right facing corner.


Protection 

rack to 3"



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By Dane
Dec 17, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Another climb (like a zillion of them at Vantage) that gets easier if you stem out of the crack. BTW we first rated this one 5.8 if stayed in the crack and actually jammed. FWIW the FA was done by Dave Fulton and not Jay Koopsen as many of the guide books have reported in error over the years.

By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Mar 21, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

This is one of the best cracks at the grade in Vantage.

By rohanbk
Mar 26, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

You'll need gear in a 0.75 - 3 range. You can take a #4 with you which you'll likely place near the top, but you can do without it if you feel confident climbing at the grade. Extra #1s are useful :)