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Sex Favor 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ??
Page Views: 515
Submitted By: Hill on Jan 16, 2003
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Christine Murphy seconding Sex Favors at the last ...
Closed (private property)

Description 

This is a slabby route just left Elusuve Wapiti [and Jelly Omelet]. Start by either climbing a creaky and crumbly flake or traverse in from the right to the first bolt. The crux comes right after the first bolt with a balancing move. Follow a couple more bolts up some 5.9ish ground and then run it way out on easy ground to the big ledge which has an anchor you can not see from below. It seemed to me that this route was easier than Jelly Omelet because it is not nearly as sustained and has a bolt in the couple spots you'd really want one. This shares the anchor with Elusive Wapiti [and Jelly Omelet], providing some great TR options.

Eds. There is a 2nd pitch shared with Jelly Omelet and Elusive Wapiti that is runout 5.7.


Protection 

4-5 quickdraws and something to extend the anchor over the edge if planning to TR.



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By Bryson Slothower
Jan 31, 2003

Sounds sweet!!! I can't wait to follow this next time you do it.

By Derek Lawrence
From: Bailey
Feb 20, 2003

Hill, based on your description for this and Jelly Omlet, I think you were off by 1 route. This decription sounds like Miss Conception 5.9+ (never done - just stared at that rusty bolt!). I've done what I considered to be the route Sex Favors and the description matches yours for Jelly Omlet. There are 5 good bolts thru what I've always felt was tough for 5.8 (call it 5.9). I'd give the route 2 stars based on my assumptions.

By richard berk
From: Denver, CO
Feb 21, 2003
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

I agree with Derek, this description is off by one route. Sex Favor is great route with well placed bolts. I feel the crux (1 or 2 moves) is 5.8 if you step right and 5.9 if you stay left. I feel it deserves 2 stars.

By Hill
Mar 3, 2003

I think you guys are right. I was confused by the Hubble topo. I started where the topo indicates Jelly Omlet should start, on the ramp directly below the first bolt of Sex Favor and not off the ground where the topo indicates. I thought this felt to easy to be 5.10c, my bad.

I requested that these 2 route be deleted from the data base so they can be re-submitted correctly. Hopefully this will happen. Sorry for contributing a fuck up!

By TBD
Jun 3, 2003
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

This route is the first bolted line (with modern hardware) starting from the left side of the crag. Fun and worthwhile route, shares 1 bolt and the anchor with Elusive Wapati.

By John McNamee
Administrator
From: Littleton, CO
Jun 29, 2003

Comments by Chad are right on. Just look for the shiny new hangers. Make sure you click the last bolt on Elusive Wapiti to protect the upper run out. Good climb and worth doing. 5.8.

By Matt Chan
From: Boulder
Nov 30, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

No doubt - clip the Elusive Wapiti bolt or else face a 40+ foot runout. I actually downclimbed (downsmeared - yikes) to clip that bolt. Although the upper part of Sex Favor is easy, I wouldn't take it for granted. It's slick granite w/ good edges, but breaking (or crushing) one of those edges is a possibility. The lower section below the ledge felt consistent with other 5.8s in the area. The upper part is probably 5.6 in spots, but mostly easier (when staying left of the shoulder that separates this route from Elusive Wapiti). 1.5 stars.

By Rodger Raubach
May 18, 2011

After grading this route here, I read the comments. This is Miss Conception, and NOT Sex Favor. It's towards the road from Elusive Wapiti and starts off of a big flake?