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GPS: 39.62375, -107.13401
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,457 total · 22/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Dec 17, 2014
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description Suggest change

The Sex Cave is the obvious cave on the southwest corner of the Surgery Buttress formation. There are 2 routes climbing the right side of the cave, one of which makes for the steepest climbing possible at the area. It gets excellent winter sun (noon until sunset).

Getting There Suggest change

Park at the Bair Ranch rest stop (exit 129) just east of Glenwood Springs. Cross under the highway to the north side and locate an obvious concrete water culvert. Walk around a barbed wire fence via the left edge of the culvert, then head up along the left side of the drainage and over a second barbed wire fence.

From here, follow a good climbers' trail up to the right end of the cliffs, and traverse west (left) along a catwalk-like ledge system all the way to the SW end of the cliffs.

After traversing across the ledge system and just before completely rounding the corner is a cave with two steep routes, the Sex Cave.

2 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sex Cave

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
Smooth Operator
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 7
Special Gift For Girls
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Smooth Operator
 6
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Special Gift For Girls
 7
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
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