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GPS: 30.3337, -98.1222
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 30,581 total · 164/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Nov 29, 2008 · Updates
Admins: mattm, Matt Richardson, Tommy Blackwell

Description Suggest change

Nice overhanging wall with stalactites down low in places. Mostly shaded most of the day, stays dry in a light rain except for the tops of the routes. Routes mostly from 5.11 to 5.13 with one 5.10. A handful of drilled pockets and some glue on a few routes.

In the left group of routes there are a couple of routes in a prominent white swath of rock then a grey bulge that is home to Bros Before Hoes 5.12+ after this there are a handfull of "unknown" routes that climb out or to the right of a big low roof. The route out the seam in the roof is undone while the routes to the right are about 5.13-.

The center group of routes:
1. No Reccess 5.12
2. Learning to Crawl 5.12c (fixed draws)
3. Super Cruiser 5.13b (fixed cable draws)
4. Learning to Fly 5.12b
4.5. Hyper Salvation 5.13b (link up of 4 and 5 @ the 2nd bolt)
5. Bolus 5.12d (fixed draw on 3rd bolt)
6. Love is a Fist 5.12c
7. Let them Eat Flake 5.12-
8. Blood of the Dead 5.11b
9. Telagraph Road 5.11

The right group of routes:
11. Mistaken Identity 5.11c
12. Pulmonary Choss 5.10
13. the guide book lists a 3rd line but I did not see it...OH I found it, climbs extreamly fractured rock just right of the previous route

Getting There Suggest change

The long overhanging wall down canyon from the Sex Cave on the right.

17 Total Climbs

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Location: Sex Canyon Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Sex Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 20
High Anxiety
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 32
Blood of the Dead (sangre de los…
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 10
Mistaken Identity
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 15
Telegraph Road
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 55
Let Them Eat Flake
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 27
Dark Energy
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 9
Learning to Fly
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 49
Learning to Crawl
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 6
Love is a Fist
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 8
No Recess
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 16
Bolus
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 24
Super Cruiser
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 6
Hyper Salivation
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
High Anxiety
 20
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Blood of the Dead (sangre d…
 32
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Mistaken Identity
 10
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Telegraph Road
 15
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Let Them Eat Flake
 55
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Dark Energy
 27
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Learning to Fly
 9
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
Learning to Crawl
 49
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Love is a Fist
 6
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
No Recess
 8
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Bolus
 16
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Super Cruiser
 24
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Hyper Salivation
 6
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
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